Travel 2017: Impressions From a Day in Van Gogh’s Arles: Day Ten
Tarascon. Today was our first full day of the Broadway On the Rhone (BOTR) river cruise. The S.S. Catherine had docked last night at Tarascon, Halte Fluviale (river stop). We had sailed south on the Rhone to get here, while the rest of the cruise will be traveling north, up the river, ending in Lyon.
Today, we had the choice of two excursions: a walking touring of the beautiful town of Tarascon or taking a coach bus to the city of Arles, for a walking tour there. Both excursions were included in the cost of the cruise. Time not allowing us to do both, we chose to visit Arles. (There was a third option scheduled for the afternoon– visiting an olive farm– for an additional fee if you chose to participate.)
Fortunately, we were able to see parts of Tarascon on our way to Arles. The most prominent structure being the Chateau de Roi René. The castle was built in the 1400s and later served as a prison up through the late 1920s.
As with so many small towns, Tarascon appeared to be a lovely place to wander and enjoy the mix of modern and historic preservations. The commune of Tarascon-sur-Rhône has a current population of only 13,500 residents.
Arles. We arrived in Arles, perhaps most famous as the temporary home of Vincent Van Gogh. Just outside the remains of the fortress walls, is the location of where the famous “yellow house” where Van Gogh lived between 1888 and 1890, once stood. Small modern shops now occupy the site.
We proceeded to enter the center of the ancient town of Arles. The commune (city) is the largest (land area) in France! It only has a population of 52,000 but its recognized land covers 293 square miles. The city center is much smaller and quite easy to navigate.
The Roman Arles Amphitheatre, completed around 90 AD, was used for chariot races and hand to hand combat. As many as 20,000 spectators would witness these events at any given time. Today the amphitheatre is used for bullfighting, concerts and other performances.
The area of town around the amphitheatre is built up with tightly nestled homes and businesses dating back many centuries. This was another spot that Van Gogh frequented, people-watching and gathering inspiration.
In very close proximity was the Theatre of Arles. Completed around 12 BC., it is one of the oldest Roman stone theatres. Back in its day, this theatre featured grand presentations of tragedies and comedies featuring actors, unlike the amphiththeatre. It is still used as a concert and performance venue today.
We spent some time at Place de la Republique which features an Obelisk and the town hall, Hotel De Ville. There was a large gathering for a funeral outside the Church of St. Trophime so we were unable to go in it. The Romanesque Catholic church was built between the 12th and 15th centuries.
The Obélisque d’Arles was erected by Roman Emperor Constantine II in the 4th century. It eventually fell and broke into two pieces, was lost for years, rediscovered, and re-erected in 1676 and placed here on a pedestal. Place de la Republique is a beautiful square in the heart of Arles.
Vincent Van Gogh in Arles. At the age of 35, Van Gogh left Paris and spent a good part of 1888 and 1889 in Arles. Here, he further developed his signature style, sketching and painting an astounding 300 pieces of art. Van Gogh was so taken by the city, he had hoped to build an artist colony in Arles. Unfortunately, he suffered from severe depression- leading to repeated hospitalizations and the infamous incident when he cut off his left ear– sending it to a prostitute. Leaving Arles, he committed himself to a hospital in St. Remy and then Auvers-sur-Oise. In May 1890, he shot himself in the chest, dying two days later from his wounds. Ironically, none of his original work remain in Arles but can be viewed in major museums all over the world.
Our next stop was L ‘Espace Van Gogh, formerly, the Hospital at Arles. Van Gogh checked himself in to the hospital’s psychiatric ward, voluntarily in 1889.
While staying at the hospital, Van Gogh painted, Garden of the Hospital in Arles or, La Jardin De La Maison De Sante A Arles (1889).
We soon reached the Van Gogh Café famous for the painting, Café Terrace at Night on the Place du Forum. Of all the spots, this is probably the most recognizable (today) of Van Gogh’s work here in Arles.
The plaza, or square, is probably one of the more charming locations in Arles. Most frequented by tourists, the plaza retains its unique, small town vibe– in spite of the outside attraction. Or in other words, it doesn’t feel touristy.
We were really enjoying the relaxing walk through the winding streets and getting a memorable, yet brief glimpse of Arles.
On our way back to our starting point, we stopped at the ruins of the Baths of Constantine (4th century).
We arrived back at the Rhone river, to see the final Van Gogh inspiration spot we’d visit– that of La Nuit Etoilée Sur Le Rhône (1888), his first Starry Night. He painted another, more famous Starry Night, a year later. The view we had today, especially with the overcast sky, was not exceptional- just historic in art context. It’s interesting to see and wonder how in Van Gogh’s head, his vision translated from life to canvas.
From there, we left to go back to our ship and had a relaxing afternoon until it was time to get ready for dinner.
Prior to dinner, we met in the lounge for our daily briefing of news and the breakdown of following day’s excursion options– all provided by our Cruise Manager, Tania– full of humor and enthusiasm.
Then we headed directly to dinner to save seats. With a party of eight, we had to get to the dining room promptly at 7 pm since most of the seating was for six or less.
At dinner, we enjoyed stellar conversation, many laughs, a great meal and wonderful service from the staff.
Broadway On the Rhone- First Concert: Liz Callaway.
Liz Callaway is a Tony nominee and Emmy Award-winning actress, singer and recording artist. She made her Broadway debut in Stephen Sondheim’s Merrily We Roll Along, received a Tony Award nomination for her performance in Baby, and for five years, won acclaim as Grizabella in Cats. She has also starred in the original casts of Miss Saigon, The Three Musketeers, and The Look of Love.
Once again, Liz gave Playbill travelers a wonderful, heartfelt concert. We enjoyed her performance as much this time, as we did on the Southeast Asia cruise. For me, highlights included Chanson and Meadowlark from The Baker’s Wife.
For those that might be wondering– since there are performers that have entertained on multiple cruises–Liz gave a fresh new concert, with the (expected) exception of her signature song from the musical Baby, The Story Goes On. It was a beautiful first concert to start off this Playbill cruise.
Travel Date: May 22, 2017 (Day 10)