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Baltic Cruise Day Eight: Klaipeda, Lithuania
Klaipeda is an important port city because it is almost always ice-free. Before 1945, it was known as Memel.
Our tour choices were rather limited, so we chose “Fairy Tales & Legends of the Witches Hill and Amber Bay”. Sounds interesting, right? Well, if you were looking for excitement– the title was about as exciting as it got.
The Baltic Sea in Lithuania from the top of a sand dune.
We stopped on the way to Witches Hill at a secluded public beach for a view of the Baltic Sea. Wait!? Haven’t we been cruising the Baltic Sea for eight days now? In spite of my sarcasm, it was a beautiful spot and I wouldn’t have minded just laying in the sun all day. To get to the sea, we had to climb slippery and steep stairs to the top of a dune to see the beach. I just thought it was odd that we stopped there and then climbed all those steps to take a quick look and then leave abruptly. (This got the complainers in the group going, right off the bat.)
One of the hand-carved statues on Witches Hill.
We took the bus to our next stop and we went on a two mile walk through the forest of Witches Hill, that was absolutely beautiful. Most of the people in our group were complaining about all the walking and I think they missed the beautiful landscape in the process. There were huge hand-carved wooden statues of mythical creatures scattered throughout the paths but our tour guide didn’t do a very good job of telling any stories behind them.
I just really enjoyed the walk and the sweet, fresh air.
The forest of Witches Hill.
Row houses near Witches Hill.
After that, we had a short break and I snapped a picture of some simpl, modern dwellings by a small garden and shop. The raised apartments didn’t look very big or very safe.
After that, we headed to Amber Bay for a brief talk with a pastor of a small church about the local community. This really got people’s eyes rolling. The bottom line was that it was an opportunity for him to solicit donations for the church. A church that only has five parishioners. I think our group was just happy to be able to sit in the church pews after the long walk.
Then we visited a weathervane museum that looked like a store, only none of the weathervanes on display were for sale. They did have other things you could buy though. We were offered shot glasses of syrup-thick amber tea and then we walked about a quarter mile along the bay.
A cottage along Amber Bay.
It was a relaxing day but a rather disappointing visit to a country I doubt I will ever visit again. What I saw was beautiful. I just wish I would have seen more.
Baltic Cruise Day Seven: Tallinn, Estonia
The minute we pulled into port, I envisioned Tallinn as a fairy tale city. From our balcony, you could see the more modern city architecture to the left; and to the right, Old Town, looking as if it was lifted out of the pages of an old story book.
The skyline of modern Tallinn, viewed to the left, from our ship.
The skyline of Old Town Tallinn, viewed to the right, from our ship.
Tallinn is the capital city of Estonia and an important seaport. The established city has been dated back to 1154 AD with artifacts having been dated back to 3000 BC. Tallin was known as Reval, from the 1200s to 1917, before assuming its current name. It reverted back to Reval during the Nazi occupation and then the name Tallinn was again restored in 1944.
One of the onion domes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral against the blue sky in Tallinn.
Our tour of the day was “Upper Town and Rocca al Mare and Folk Show“. We started in Toompea (Upper Town), touring the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and then continuing on foot through the quaint streets of Old Town Tallinn.
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was build at the end of the 1800s while under the Russian Empire, as an orthodox cathedral. The inspiration is immediately recognized by the prominent onion domes. It was almost demolished in the 1920s because the people of Estonia viewed it as a reminder of Soviet oppression. Luckily, it was saved and has been restored.
We wandered the narrow cobble stone streets until we reached the medieval Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin known as Dome Church.
It was established before 1233 AD and has been repeatedly rebuilt (restored) ever since. The Baroque tower was added in the late 1700s.
The Baroque tower of the Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin, also known as the Dome Church.
Inside the Dome Church.
Michael and I had some time to explore the streets while others on our tour visited some local shops and I really enjoyed just casually strolling through history.
The streets of Toompea (Upper Town), Tallinn, Estonia.
We had a beautiful view of the city and rooftops from Toompea, before making our way back to the bus for the second part of our tour. We didn’t spend time visiting Al-linn (Lower Town) but I would have liked to. I’d definitely consider returning to Tallinn for an extended stay and a chance to fully explore and experience all the history and ambience it has to offer.
The rooftops of Toompea.
Next, we went to the Estonian Open Air Museum in the Rocca al Mare subdistrict of Tallinn. The park featured many examples of dwellings over the years and costumed performers that treated us to folk songs and dance while we snacked on meat pies and coffee. Michael was grabbed by one of the performers to participate in one of the dances. (Better him than me!)
Chickens at the Estonian Open Air Museum.
I’m not a huge fan of reenactment parks but I do think they are important historically. The park is beautiful and very well maintained. I found myself most interested in the low moss covered walls and animals (chickens and pigs) than the thatched roof dwellings themselves. I got left behind at point, talking to a pig and trying to get him to raise his head while I was taking pictures.
My new friend.
A windmill at the Estonian Open Air Museum.
Costumed children running down a path in Rocca al Mare.
Beautiful moss-covered walls lining the paths at the Estonian Open Air Museum.
I loved that we were able to combine the old city with some of the more natural surroundings of Tallinn. It was sunny and warm– a beautiful way to end the day.
Baltic Cruise Day Three: Helsinki, Finland
Our view of Helsinki as we sailed in to port.
Helsinki is the beautiful, urban capital city of Finland. Full of history and culture it is also the largest, most populated city in Finland. We took the four hour, “Walking Tour of Helsinki”, which wasn’t nearly enough time to see all we would have liked to have seen but our guide gave us a really nice cross section of the historic and modern influences the city has to offer.
Our guides in both Turku and Helsinki stressed the importance and strong government support for education in Finland. Most education through university, is free, even to foreign students. To graduate though, in addition to the Finnish language, you must learn and show a mastery of the Swedish language as well, even though less than 5% of the population are native Swedish speakers. The reasoning is due to the close social and economic ties with Sweden. If I remember correctly, English is taught to students beginning in the third grade. I found this very impressive.
Uspenski Cathedral
Our first stop was the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral, the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. It was designed by Russian architect, Alexey Gornostaev but wasn’t built until after his death in 1862.
Next we visited Helsinki Cathedral, the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland, in the center of Helsinki. It’s main structure is in the design of a cross with a large main dome surrounded by four smaller domes. The domes were added later, modeled after Saint Issac’s Cathedral in Saint Petersburg, Russia.
Helsinki Cathedral
The interior, though simpler than many of the Russian cathedrals we would visit later, is quite stunning with its high arching peaks.
The magnificent pipe organ and choir loft of Helsinki Cathedral.
I found it interesting that the choir lofts in most of the churches and cathedrals we visited are behind the congregation and mostly hidden from view.
Great care is taken in the renovation and maintenance of these iconic Finnish landmarks.
We then walked through the more modern streets in the heart of Helsinki and saw many examples of historic and modern architecture and also many, many buildings dedicated to the arts.
Taking a break from our walk, we stopped at an intriguing little local restaurant for blueberry tarts, coffee and tea. It was tucked away in a much more densely populated part of the city that you could easily miss. The decor was quite eclectic and I couldn’t resist snapping a picture of the colorfully-lit bar just inside the entrance. I loved the atmosphere in this place.
A hidden gem in modern Helsinki.
Continuing our walk, we visited the historic Finnish National Theatre and the modern, glass-designed, Helsinki Music Centre, that houses two symphony orchestras and the Sibelius Music Academy.
Outside the Church of the Rock in the center of Helsinki.
Then we came to a large rock hill, roughly the size of a city block, surrounded by business and apartment buildings. Inside this rock is the Temppeliaukio Church, also know as the Church of the Rock. It is a Lutheran Church built in the late 1960’s inside the excavated rock. From the outside, the land appears mostly undisturbed, similar to the exposed rock clusters you’d find in Central Park, NYC. Inside, you find a gorgeous modern church, rock walls, copper ceiling with natural light warming the center.
Inside the Temppeliaukio Church, also know as the Church of the Rock.
A close up shot from underneath the Sibelius Monument.
We got on the bus to travel a short distance to our final stop on our tour, Sibelius Park. Here stands the Sibelius Monument to honor Finland’s great composer, Jean Sibelius.
Sibelius (1865-1957), was a prolific composer, particularly in the 1920’s and is probably best known for his composition, Finlandia and his symphonies.
Apparently, there was quite a controversy over the monument and its modern art design when it was erected in the late 1960’s. I love its design and think it’s a fitting tribute to the late composer.
The Sibelius Monument in Helsinki, Finland.
Thousands of residents travel each day by the Helskini trams.
So there are the highlights of our whirlwind tour of Helsinki. I really loved the blend of historic and modern architecture.
The city was busy, yet didn’t give you that overwhelming, rushed feeling that many new city surroundings can give you.
I was also impressed by the elaborate transportation options in the city. Fewer cars and many bicycles, trains, buses and trams for travel.
I’d definitely visit Helsinki again.
Back on the Voyager, we ended the day with a fabulous dinner followed by this breathtaking sunset. A perfect ending to perfect day.
Finnish sunset on the Baltic Sea.
Next stop: Russia.
Baltic Cruise Day Two: Turku, Finland
I never in my life thought I’d visit Finland. I’d never heard of Turku before the cruise, so I had no real expectations. Exploring the unknown is always a real adventure.
At every port we had multiple excursions to choose from and Michael and I booked all of ours online months before the cruise to take advantage of the best options. We learned later that as tours filled up, often new ones were opened. For the most part, we got our first choices at each port.
Turku Castle
Turku is the oldest city in Finland, believed to be founded towards the end of the thirteenth century. An important
Finnish city, it is probably best know as an important seaport for commercial and passenger ships.
Of the available tours, we chose “Turku Castle, Naantali & Ruissalo” giving us the opportunity to experience three different communities in Finland. There was also the opportunity to explore Turku on your own– but as first time visitors we thought we’d get the most from an organized excursion.
The Inner Courtyard at Turku Castle.
Let me say here, as a rule, I’m not a big fan of tours. I would prefer to move along at my own pace, taking more time in areas of interest, skipping through others and stopping for photos along the way. When you’re on a bus with a tight itinerary, or even on foot, it can get a little frustrating. I took very few photos on the buses because they just don’t turn out well. At every port we passed many areas I would have liked to explore. Throughout our trip though, we felt it was the best introduction to foreign countries. We now have a better idea of what countries and towns we’d like to return to for a longer visit. I’d also like to add, with one exception, all of our local tour guides were really great at what they do.
Medieval Art at Turku Castle.
Our first stop was Turku Castle. Building of the medieval castle began around the year 1280 and then it was later expanded during the 16th century. Extremely well preserved, it is the most prominent symbol of Turku and a popular tourist destination.
I found great beauty in the massive structure and was particular fond of the inner courtyard and the surviving medieval paintings that adorned the inner walls. The large chapel also displayed some interesting and unique artifacts.
Inside Turku Castle.
The main street in Naantali, Finland.
Our second stop was the city of Naantali. It is considered an important summer tourist destination in Finland. The year-round population is less than 20,000 but increases substantially during the summer months.
One thing I learned, that seemed to be a common theme in most of the countries we visited, is that unlike families in the United States, most families in these countries have some sort of a vacation home for relaxation in the warm summer months . In the US it is more the exception than the norm.
Naantali Church.
We had free time to wander around Naantali Old Town and harbor on our own. Though it was bustling with the activities of tourists and and summer residents, we enjoyed the peaceful, relaxing atmosphere it had to offer.
We wandered off the main street, down alleyways and through some of the residential paths lined with small cottages. Attracted by a bell tower, ended up spending the most time on the grounds of the medieval Naantali church and cemetery. It was all so quiet and serene. A nice contrast to the more densely populated city of Turku, giving us a broader glimpse of Finnish life.
The cemetery at Naantali Church.
Naantali Harbor
The barn of a secluded home on the island of Ruissalo.
Our final stop of the day was the island of Ruissalo, in the Archipelago Sea, southwest of the city of Turku. Ruissalo has a very small population of just a few hundred residents and is best known for their annual Ruisrock music festival.
We walked along the water, down a path past quaint, secluded homes and enjoyed the warm sunny afternoon and fresh air before returning to the ship for dinner, followed by Patti LuPone’s highly-anticipated concert.
A sailboat at the island of Ruissalo.
Stockholm
We arrived in Stockholm late afternoon Saturday and after checking in to the Sheraton Stockholm, decided to just set out to explore the city with no clear destination. We were both pretty exhausted after the long flight but quickly got our second wind and set out to experience our new surroundings.
Stockholm is such a beautiful city full of history and art. For all the people out and about, it was still so quiet and relaxed. Old Town is full of the charm and quaint beauty I hoped to experience on this trip. There are so many squares and open areas just to sit and relax and take in the ambiance. Old Town is full of restaurants, bars and unique shops; combined with the eclectic mix of people, giving it an artsy, romantic vibe. I think I might have found the second place in the world I’d like to live (after NYC).
If we had a little more time here, I’d definitely be heading back to one of the squares, just to sit, read, and take it all in. It’s just beautiful here.
Photo Essay: ‘Living the High Life’ on the Norwegian Jewel
Room 10504. The Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel. Our 7 day home away from home on my 50th birthday cruise. Here’s a quick photo tour of our room. I’ll post more pictures of the ship in a later blog post.
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Room 10504, the Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel. Our home for seven days.
- Our welcome arrangement from the staff.
- The living space in the Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel.
The bedroom in the Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel.
A view of the living space from the bedroom.
Our side balcony in the Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel.
- Our front balcony.
The bathroom in the Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel.
Our amazing multi-head shower.
Our of our closet in the Pink Diamond Suite on the Norwegian Jewel.
- The powder room.
The view from our front balcony, anchored at Stirrup Cay.
The Haven on the Norwegian Jewel. A private area for guests staying in the suites.
The Haven.
The private sun deck above The Haven.
Looking down through the retractable roof at The Haven.
Our collection of ‘pets’ gathered during our stay.
Photo Essay: Sailing From New York City
Here are some photos I shot from my balcony on NCL’s Norwegian Jewel, December 30, 2012. We sailed out of Pier 88 on the Hudson River just after 4 PM. The view was simply breathtaking.
Midtown Manhattan from the Hudson River.
The Empire State Building.
Piers on the Hudson River.
Sun setting on the New Jersey side.
Lower Manhattan.
Approaching New York Harbor and the Statue of Liberty.
The Statue of Liberty at sunset.
Staten Island Ferry.
Skyline of Lower Manhattan.
Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, New York Harbor.
How Do You Measure… A Day in New York?
125th Street, Harlem, New York City.
The Marquee at the historic Apollo Theatre in Harlem.
How do you measure a day in New York? Sixteen Thousand Eight Hundred and Sixteen (16,816) steps according to my fitness tracker. I’m not sure how accurate it is but I’ve been wearing it for about three months now and that’s my one-day record. I got the tracker to help measure my weight loss and work outs. Even if it’s not completely accurate, it has definitely been a motivating factor in my daily activities, measuring my work out progress, calories burned and daily steps taken.
Yesterday morning was our time to explore New York, this trip. Every trip to the city, we try to explore some place we haven’t been before. Having friends here gives us a chance to get a New Yorker’s view of the city and things to see and do. Yesterday we explored Harlem’s 125th Street and then worked our way down past Columbia University.
The world famous Cotton Club in Harlem.
Honoring a legend– outside the Apollo Theater.
Harlem isn’t the supposed frightening place it was years ago. In fact, it looks pretty much like many other parts of New York and even Chicago. Of course no other city has the legendary Apollo Theater or the Cotton Club. We got to see both of them on our rather frigid walk.
The men’s room at Dinosaur Bar-B-Que.
We stopped at the end of 125th where it meets the Hudson River, at Dinosaur Bar-B-Que and met friends there for lunch. We shared smokey wings, pulled pork and brisket… all were absolutely delicious! (I know it may seem like I’m starting an obsession but I had to post a picture of the unique men’s room.)
After lunch, we walked down through Columbia University and past The Cathedral Church of Saint John the Divine. I played there (with the youth orchestra I mentioned in the previous blog) when I was in high school. Then we jumped on the subway to head to our matinee performance.
Chicago, the Musical. I got a special deal on tickets so we had great house seats to the show. In all the years it’s been running, Michael and I had never seen Chicago on Broadway. I have to say I prefer the movie to this long-running revival production. Still, it’s a solid production, strong performances and the choreography is still executed with tight precision– something that could easily be missing from a show that’s been running for so long. (I’ll be seeing it again in January when I come to New York with a group of students from school.)
Subway Train Tracks near the Hudson River.
Chaplin the Musical. What a surprise treat! The reviews of Chaplin weren’t good and partially as a result, it is closing next week. Michael and I both found it to be our favorite show this trip, so far. Everything about the production is good. The staging, choreography, sets, costumes and performances are all top-notch. Rob McClure as Chaplin is a whirlwind of talent and fully embodies the character. Definitely a Tony contender. Even though Michael and I both agreed Billy Porter (Kinky Boots) will probably give him a run for his money in a very tight Tony race, McClure deserves the prize.
Chaplin’s story can be considered part tragedy but was skillfully told in a way that didn’t become too dark and focused much of the show on the good that existed in Chaplin’s tumultuous life. It has a great score with a number of songs, sure to become standards in the musical theatre repertoire.
After the show, we headed over to John’s Pizza on 44th street for a quick bite before midnight. Delicious as always, John’s is one of the top rated pizza restaurants in New York.
My friend Amee met us in Times Square for my birthday countdown and then Michael headed back to the room, while Amee and I went to the Cranberry Deli next to our hotel for a red velvet cupcake. Even though I was pretty wiped out, I still stayed up until almost 3 AM, responding to early morning birthday wishes on Facebook, Twitter and email. It was a pretty terrific day.
The Library at Columbia University.
The Cathedral of St. John the Divine.
Cathedral Window.
Statute in the park next to St. John’s.
A Walk In The Woods: A Fall Photo Essay
One of the things my Dad and I have in common is our love for the color changes in autumn. This year seems like an extraordinary year for fall foliage in Illinois, so I decided to take a walk with my camera and try to capture the magic. This is for you Dad.
All photos were shot October 9, 2012 with a Canon Powershot SX40, minor editing in iPhoto.
Property of Jeff Linamen.
Day Seven: Last Full Day In New York
Thursday was a huge day for us, to say the least. It’s hard to believe how fast the week has gone and I can’t say I was looking forward to returning home.
The South Tower Pool at the 9/11 Memorial.
I’d gotten our passes for the 9/11 Memorial prior to our trip and we were the first group of the day. You have to go through all the same security procedures as you do when you fly, so the process takes a little while and you can not enter the site without passes.
Having had my play, September’s Heroes produced by Bartlett High School last Fall, this visit held a special importance to me. I will be forever emotionally tied to the tragic events of more than ten years ago and needed to pay my respects and hoped it would help my ongoing grieving process.
Currently the memorial is surrounded by construction on all sides. The new World Trade Center is quickly climbing into the sky adjoining the memorial and the 9/11 Museum which is set to open later this year. Right now, you can visit the two mammoth pools that mark the footprint of the original North and South Towers of the original World Trade Center. Surrounding both pools are all the names of those that lost their lives in the 9/11 attacks, including those at the Pentagon and in Pennsylvania.
Kevin Cosgrove perished in the South Tower of the World Trade Center.
The moment that hit me hardest was finding the name of Kevin Cosgrove, who’s devastatingly powerful 911 call from the South Tower, up to the moment it fell, was the inspiration behind one of the segments of my play. Seeing his name brought back all the memories. I walked around both pools, trying to read all the names, never wanting to forget that moment. It will always be a part of me.
When we left the memorial, we headed down to Battery Park and decided to take the ferry to Ellis Island. I hadn’t realized that Michael had never been to the park. The damaged Sphere from the World Trade Center Plaza is displayed there and you have a great view of New York Harbor and the Statue of Liberty.
Lady Liberty
We got tickets and went through security (again) and boarded the ferry. The Statue of Liberty is closed for renovations at the base level, so we opted to stay on the boat (you can still walk around Liberty Island) and just go to Ellis Island. I’d been to the statue before, walked up to the crown, in fact, but in all my trips to New York, I’d never visited Ellis Island.
I believe most of the buildings surrounding the main building are being renovated. The main building houses Registry Hall where new immigrants to America waited for processing. There are a lot of exhibits in rooms surrounding the great hall, full of pictures and information about the many years when Ellis Island was a working, entry point into the United States. As far as I’ve been able to research over the years, none of my ancestors came through here. There are many ways you can search, by computer or with assistance (and an appointment) for records of those that arrived.
Ellis Island
One of the reasons I chose to visit on this trip, is my work on the production of RAGTIME at school. I hoped visiting would give me some additional knowledge I could bring back to the students of Bartlett High.
There is a scene in the show that depicts the immigrants arrival and I found a lot of good information about how the immigrants lived once they had been processed and struggled to survive in their new world.
A funny side note– while we were waiting for the ferry back to Manhattan, one of our New York friends sent Michael a text asking him if we were ready to slit our wrist yet… knowing we’d seen two heavy plays the day before, and then visiting the 9/11 Memorial and Ellis Island (maybe you had to be there).
Jesus Christ Superstar
We had enough time to stop at our hotel and freshen up before our final show, number twelve… the Broadway revival of Jesus Christ Superstar.
This was not a good choice to end our trip.
The best way I can describe the show is a huge mish-mash of costumes, time periods and effects… or a big conglomerate mess. From hip hop and Glee to time lords (or Star Wars) and leather…. it didn’t appear anyone could make up their minds what to do with this production. I felt that with all the technology they were using, this was the worst lighting of any show we’d seen. They didn’t even use their CNN-style scrolling ticker effectively. Just a mess. I won’t even get in to the casting or the switching of who sings what… Just an emotionless mess. I’d wished we’d seen Godspell instead.
As is our tradition, we stopped on the way back to the hotel and picked up a pizza from Famous Famiglia in Times Square and called it a night.
The new World Trade Center under construction.
How Do You Measure 525600 Minutes? 