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Travel 2016: Day Fifteen – Back to the USA
Time to say goodbye to Europe and head home. Whirlwind trips like this are so rewarding and overwhelming at the same time. Here, on the last day, I was full of mixed feelings: sad it was over, anxious to see my pups, and needing a vacation to recover from vacation. But– what an incredible experience!
Bernini columns surrounding St. Peter’s Square.
When I got up, I walked back over to St. Peter’s Square. The sun was rising as I watched the nuns and clergy making their way to work. People were already lining up at the Holy Door, waiting for the first service at the Basilica.
I just took a moment to breathe it all in….. Absorb it….. Memorize it….. Knowing it was time but not quite ready to file it away.
The four of us had breakfast (Michael, Mary, George and I)– which opened a little late– causing us a bit of a rush before our transportation to the airport arrived.
By the time we got our luggage downstairs, our transport was waiting for us. I took one last look at the grand columns surrounding St. Peter’s Square as we climbed in the van, bidding Rome a fond farewell. Ciao!
We got to the airport quickly and easily, then said our last goodbyes to George and Mary. (In all likelihood, we wouldn’t see them again for seven months– in Paris!) Then we proceeded to get checked in and head to our gate.
Everything was pretty much on time. We got settled in on the plane and shortly after take off, I watched the tearjerker, Me Before You. I thought it was really well done. It’s one of those sad, schmaltzy, romantic films that can easily be done wrong– but it kept its edge and believability throughout, without getting too sappy.
Over the course of the ten hour flight, I dosed on and off. My head was full of all the places we’d been. Growing up I’d never thought I’d ever see the world like this.
When we arrived at O’Hare, we breezed through customs with our Global Entry clearance and the new, automated ‘self serve’ kiosks that definitely sped up the process.
Peggy had picked the kids (Belle & Dudley) up from their vacation– and took them home before she came to get us. If she hadn’t, we’d have had to wait two more days (Monday) before we could get them.
We pulled in the driveway and it was overflowing with fallen leaves– just the first reminder of all the fall projects still ahead.
We were home.
Looking back, Michael and I had shared another truly amazing journey. We’d expanded our travel log: adding 5 West End shows, meeting nearly a dozen Broadway pros, visited 4 more countries and 18 cities, in addition to sailing the Mediterranean Sea. And– we still have so much more of the world to experience! We made new friends, created memories with old friends and had a thoroughly wonderful time.
I can’t stress enough the value of traveling and seeing the world. The history, different cultures and most important– seeing how others live and adapt– really help put the big picture in perspective.
(Original Travel Date: October 1, 2016)
Travel 2016: Day Fourteen – Back to Rome and Vatican City
We sailed into Cittavecchia as the sun rose, ending our seven day cruise. Before we disembarked the Silver Wind, we had breakfast, said a few goodbyes and waited to be called. We were provided transportation from Cittavecchia to the taxi stand at the Piazza Barberini in Rome. From there we headed to Vatican City.
Arriving at the Residenza Paolo VI Hotel, our home for the night– we had plenty of time before our tour. The hotel was literally across a narrow side street from St. Peter’s Square. George and Mary were able to check in when we arrived but our room wasn’t ready. We left our bags in their room and then we went upstairs and checked out the view from the terrace.
View of St. Peter’s from the terrace of the Residenza Paolo VI Hotel in Rome.
Michael had booked our private tour before the trip. This allowed us to bypass the lines at the Vatican Museum which can be quite long. We were supposed to meet our guide by some park stairs near the museum — we just had to find them. After spending a little time in St. Peter’s Square, we headed out around the perimeter of Vatican City– and of course. we chose the long way around.
St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City, Rome.
Michael and I in St. Peter’s Square.
The fortress-like wall around Vatican City.
After about a half mile walk, we found the meeting point and then decided to get a little lunch before the tour. We ended up at a little corner joint — didn’t look like much on the outside but inside it was actually quite nice. We had a nice filling lunch (I had pizza) and then headed to meet our guide.
The Vatican Museum is massive. We only saw a portion of it, marveling at the incredible content as we moved from room to room. Detailed frescos, hundreds of enormous tapestries, thousands of marble sculptures– not to mention the wide variety of architectural styles throughout the museum.
Above the entrance to the Vatican Museum.
Ancient Marble Roman Busts.
Inside the Vatican Museum.
Domed Ceiling in the Vatican Museum.
I loved this sculpture.
Incredible detail in this Mosaic Floor.
Laocoon and His Sons, excavated in Rome, 1506.
Sala Rotonda in the Vatican Museum.
Roman Mosaic Floor in the Vatican Museum.
Inside one of the four Raphael Rooms.
Lysippos, Apoxyomenos.
Inside a large room filled with animal but mostly dog sculptures.
In a courtyard at the Vatican Museum in Vatican City.
The Sistine Chapel. I’ve always heard this was a must-see in Rome and it is only accessible with a ticket to the Vatican Museum. We were warned before entering that there was to be no talking and no photography inside.
We entered, and were in and out in probably five minutes or less. Why? It was extremely crowded and a little uncomfortable. Visitors were crammed in like sardines, most staring up at the magnificent ceiling. But– people were talking, taking cell phone pictures and prompting the guards to yell at the crowd, repeatedly, to stop doing both.
I kept getting bumped into and brushed against. I was honestly afraid I was going to fall victim to the rumored pick-pockets. It was the only time during the whole trip that I had any concern. I was just anxious to get out of there. By the time I got to the other side of the room– the rest of our party was also there– we all just wanted to leave that claustrophobic environment.
St. Peter’s Basilica. The Papal Basilica is considered by many as one of the world’s most holy places. We’ve toured many churches, cathedrals and basilicas around the world. This is THE basilica, right? Nothing can prepare you for how colossal it really is until you walk inside and experience it for yourself. The tallest dome in the world, it rises 448 feet above the sanctuary.
St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
The famous Popes Balcony at St. Peter’s Basilica.
Preparing to Enter St. Peter’s Basilica.
As we were nearing the end of a Jubilee year, we were still able to pass through the Holy Door which according to Catholic beliefs, cleanses the pilgrims that pass through it. (The Holy door was just resealed by the Pope a few weeks ago.) It is normally sealed from the inside with mortar.
Waiting to enter the Holy Door that is only open during a Jubilee year celebration.
Michaelangelo’s Pieta, 1498.
The stunning interior of St. Peter’s Basilica.
Inside St. Peter’s Basilica.
Dome inside St. Peter’s Basilica.
The Altar Canopy Inside St. Peter’s Basilica is only used by the Pope.
There is no charge to visit St. Peter’s. If you are visiting Rome but limited on time, you should most definitely visit St. Peter’s Square and the Basilica, even if you don’t have time to tour the museum.
For dinner we headed to Su & Giu Cucina Romana on the recommendation of George’s sister. We arrived too early (just after 6) forgetting that most restaurants close after lunch and then open later for dinner. In our case, they didn’t open until 7:30. So we took a walk through the neighborhood and did some window shopping in the meantime.
George and I enjoying the street view on our last night in Rome.
The streets were quite lively. There were lots of street vendors and people hurrying about. I found a special pleasantness about it all– a wonderful vibe and quite charming. It was enjoyable just to sit, people-watch and soak it all in.
We were the first to be seated when we got back to the restaurant. We couldn’t have shared a more perfect meal for our last night. There was an overabundance of delicious food. We were stuffed!
We took a taxi back to the hotel, George and Mary went upstairs, while Michael and I walked back over to St. Peter’s Square to view it all lit up and snap a few photos.
St. Peter’s Square at night.
I’m really glad we planned our trip this way. Saving a day just dedicated to seeing the Vatican was a smart move. There’s really no way to truly experience all that Rome has to offer and the Vatican in one day. Splitting it up the way we did, I feel like we were able to fully experience this incredible city– even if it was crammed into a couple days.
(Original Travel Date: September 30, 2016)
Travel 2016: Day Thirteen – Bonifacio, Corsica, France
Bonifacio is a French commune (city) on the island of Corsica (Corse). It is a fortress city with a modest population of just under 3,000 inhabitants. Though it has a Roman origin, the island changed hands several times and in 1769 was conquered by France. Still, it retains much of its Italian culture to this day.
We tendered in from our ship to the gorgeous little harbour, nestled among the high cliffs of the island. From the port, we took a short train (tram) ride– uphill, to the top of the city sitting high above the sea.
Plaque commemorating the house where Napoleon had once lived.
After a rather long-winded introduction, our guide took us through the narrow streets of Bonifacio, pointing out several churches and showing us some of the more breathtaking scenic spots. Along the Rue des Deux Empereurs we saw where Napoleon lodged (1793) and where Charles V had lived (1541), across the street.
Bonifacio has the feel of a resort town, full of history with many quaint shops and restaurants.
Once we were oriented, we were on our own to explore. George, Mary and I chose to take a boat ride from the harbour along the coast while Michael did some shopping along the docks.
As you can see from the pictures, the scenery is just gorgeous. It was all enhanced by perfect weather and great company to share it with.
The rocky coast of Corsica.
Looking out at the Mediterranean Sea.
Michael, George, Mary and I in Bonifacio.
On the street in Bonifacio.
I loved the textures in this shot.
A typical street in Bonifacio, Corsica.
Looking down towards the stunning harbour.
Starting the steep descent from the top of Bonifacio.
The fortress walls from our little tour boat in the harbour.
Leaving the harbour.
Inside the Cave of Sdragonato.
You can see where the rock of the island of Corsica changes from limestone to granite.
Bonifacio sitting high on the limestone cliffs of Corsica.
Last Night Onboard. The last night of a cruise is always difficult because you’re trying to say goodbye to everyone, pack and get your bags out to be moved off the ship by the staff; plus you still have dinner and a big final show. So between rushing around and trying to get everyone coordinated for our last dinner together, it was kind of a circus.
We made some great new friends and got to spend time with some of our favorite people from past cruises as well. Since many of us live all over the United States, and Anthony and Michael in London– you just never know when you’ll see each other again.
The good news is that quite a few of us have booked the Broadway on the Rhone River Cruise in May so we have that to look forward to in 2017.
The Big Show. Our final show of the cruise featured all of the performers including the ‘Broadway Ambassadors’ that didn’t give solo concerts. Here are a few of the highlights:
- Faith Prince on stage with her husband Larry Lunetta playing his trumpet.
- Charles Busch singing “Those Were the Days” – It was a master class in storytelling.
- Laura Osnes and Lindsay Mendez singing “For Good” – Both got emotional and teary eyed; sweet, spontaneous emotion.
- Hudson Flynn, Lila Crawford, Juli Wesley performing – Hudson is the multi-talented son of Andrea Burns and Peter Flynn; Lila played Annie in the most Broadway revival and Little Red in the film version of Into the Woods; and Juli is the wonderful daughter of Seth Rudetsky and James Welsey. (Juli celebrated her 16th birthday on the trip!)
- West Side Story Quintet – This was the show finale- thrown together in an hour! Featuring Chita Rivera singing Anita ( the role she originated); Andrea Burns (Maria) and husband, director Peter Flynn (Tony) – they met playing those roles in a European tour of West Side Story!; The rest of the performers made up the Jets and Sharks.
Faith Prince
Faith Prince & husband, Larry Lunetta
Lila Crawford
Chita Rivera
Adam Pascal
Charles Busch
Hudson Flynn, Lila Crawford & Juli Wesley
Seth Rudetsky, Music Director and Master of Ceremonies
The Creative Team & Travel Pros for BOTHS7.
Up Late. A bunch of us congregated afterwards for the last time. Bill, Paul, Janet, Ron and a few others came and went, chatting and saying their goodbyes. Michael left to go put his luggage out- it was supposed to be out by 11:30– and I assured him I was right behind him. As everyone left, Janet and I stopped and chatted for a few minutes with Andrea Burns in the lounge.
I escorted Janet to the elevator than headed back to the room. Of course, me being me, I was late getting my bags out– so they sat there all night. I went up to the casino to meet Michael, we played some slots, then headed back to the room and called it a night.
Tomorrow we disembark and head back to Rome for a day at the Vatican.
Travel 2016: Day Twelve – The Italian Ruins of Nora and a Broadway Legend
It was a sunny but hazy morning as we hurried through breakfast and our morning routine.
We boarded the coach bus for day’s tour and it seemed to take forever to get out of the port. We maneuvered through traffic and our guide gave us some of the history of the region as we trudged along.
The Devil’s Saddle on the coast of Sardinia.
It felt like as soon as we actually started moving, we were stopping at an overlook for a panoramic view of the area. We had Cagliari on one side and the Devil’s Saddle on the other.
The Devil’s Saddle is a natural rock formation, jutting out into the sea. The legend says that the Devil loved the beauty of the Cagliari coast. God sent Archangel Michael with an army of angels to banish Lucifer. During the battle, Lucifer was thrown from his horse, losing his seat which later turned to stone.
Cagliari is the capital city of the Italian island of Sardinia. It has about 150,000 residents and is the largest city on the island.
Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy.
It was a nice little stop, not rushed and some great views. The haze hadn’t burned off so my pictures don’t really do it justice.
Archaeological Site of Nora. Nora is located on a peninsula. A portion of it is submerged because the southern part of Sardinia is slowly sinking into the Mediterranean Sea. An ancient Roman town, only part of Nora has been excavated because much of it is under the control of the Italian Army. The part that has been excavated is not nearly as impressive as the ruins of Pompeii, but jutting out into the ocean, it’s a wonder that this much has survived.
From Nora, the skies over Sardinia.
There’s a substantial amount of walking, nothing treacherous– just getting to the site from the parking. Along the way is a beautiful public beach, a rocky coast line and on the other side- a nice view of the island’s mountains.
At the actual entrance, there is a nice little cafe where we stopped to use the facilities while our guide purchased our tickets.
We entered the site and the guide stopped to talk… and talk…. and talk. True to form, Michael and I got bored and decided to wander off, keeping the group in sight so we didn’t repeat our Pompeii incident.
At one point as we were wandering, Michael’s attention was drawn one direction and I walked off in another. Suddenly, alarms were going off– which I ignored– until they sounded a second time. There was also an announcement to return to the main path. I still wasn’t sure it was me until I turn back the direction I’d come from and saw two of those small security cameras pointed my direction. I’m still not sure exactly why the area was restricted. It wasn’t marked, it wasn’t roped off and looked no different than the rest of the pathways. I guess this is why you’re supposed to follow your guide!
Much of the ruins of Nora look like this.
Excavated Walls of the Ruins of Nora.
Portions of a surviving mosaic floor.
The Ruins of Nora set against a stunning backdrop.
We were given very little time to explore so we made the most of it. As it turns out, had there been time, we could have gone out and explored one of the two watch towers on the site.
One of two watch towers at Nora.
I’d highly recommend that anyone interested in visiting Nora, make it a relaxing day trip and plan on some beach time while you’re there. Though the ruins themselves aren’t spectacular, the location and views are. A lovely place to spend a relaxing day.
Autograph Session, Part Due. Back on the ship, we went to the second autograph session with the other half of the performers. Immediately following, we went to dinner, excitement building for the headline performance to follow.
Our framed, autographed poster from Broadway On the High Seas 7.
Chita Rivera in Concert. Who hasn’t heard of Chita Rivera? The legendary star of such Broadway musicals as Can-Can, West Side Story, Chicago, Kiss of the Spider Woman and most recently, The Visit. She’s a Broadway Icon.
Chita Rivera.
Michael and I had seen her on Broadway twice before. The Dancer’s Life (2005), was a sort of retrospective of her life and career; and the revival of The Mystery of Edwin Drood, played Broadway in 2012.
Her concert for us tonight, was a mix of interview and song. It featured many wonderful numbers from her illustrious career. I was most thrilled that she sang “Chief Cook & Bottle Washer”, from the musical The Rink, in which she co-starred with Liza Minnelli in 1984.
Of course, the audience loved her! She might have even given the longest concert ever on a BOTHS cruise.
The legendary Chita Rivera.
Chita Rivera in Concert.
Tomorrow is our last full day of the cruise and we’re visiting Bonifacio, Corsica, France.
Travel 2016: Day Eleven – Erice, Sicily: Feels Like Home
Our Silver Seas ship, the Silver Wind, docked in Trapani.
We docked this morning in Trapani, Sicily. Beautiful blue skies only added to our anticipation of exploring another new location. Today we were headed to Erice. We actually could have fit in two different locations but the scheduling would have been pretty tight. Instead, we opted to just stick with one excursion and have a more relaxed day.
Early afternoon, we boarded the bus and headed up the narrow winding roads to the top of Mount Erice. We had some pretty spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea and of Trapani below us as we climbed.
The view of the Mediterranean as we climbed Mount Erice.
Looking up towards the top of Mount Erice and our destination.
Just outside the city’s walls stood the Chiese Madre (Main Church) greeting us. Originally built in 1312, it actually collapsed in 1853 and was immediately rebuilt in the Neo-Gothic style.
Chiesa Madre against the clear blue sky.
Chiesa Madre.
We had the opportunity to spend some time inside the church and marvel at its majestic detail.
Inside the Chiesa Madre.
Close up of the altar in Chiesa Madre.
Intricate detail in the Chiesa Madre.
We entered the west end of Erice through the Porta Trapani, one of three entrances to the city. Erice has a long complicated history dating back to ancient times. The population here at the peak is only about 300. The city was all but abandoned by the year 1800; one of the reasons being the harsh winters.
The west entrance of Erice- Porta Trapani.
There are a lot of Greek and Roman influences here. The biggest impression you get from the city is the quiet, quaint charm of it all. Even with thousands of tourists filling the streets, it remains a calm, peaceful place.
One of several dogs we past, lounging in the streets of Erice.
The simple, quaint charm of Erice.
The bell tower of Chiesa di San Giuliano, Erice.
Our walk took us through the streets, slowly climbing upwards but not steep enough to really notice. We reached the Venus Castle, also known as Norman Castle, Torri Pepoli Castle or simply Erice Castle. The castle was built in the 12th century on top of the ancient Temple of Venus. In addition to the castle itself (now part of it is a resort hotel), you have the advantage of some of the best views in Erice.
Approaching Venus Castle.
Venus Castle.
A view of Sicily from the top of Mount Erice.
The mighty fortress: Norman, or Venus Castle.
The resort entrance at Venus Castle.
Feels Like Home. At some point, Michael voiced what I was thinking, “How’d you like to live here?” A relatively peaceful, quiet, simple life- maybe not a very practical idea– but that’s just how Erice felt. Like home.
The first time I ever felt that way about a place, was in my 20’s in Greenwich Village, NYC. It was late at night, just a few days before Christmas. A light snow was falling and the city was quiet. I passed just a few people on the street and we all seemed to be enjoying the magic in the air. It just felt– right.
The next time I felt that was when Michael and I visited Stockholm a couple years ago. Strolling around the Stortorget (The Big Square), lined with brightly colored, centuries-old buildings.
It’s an incredible feeling when you find a place like that. It’s the ambience– more of a vibe than anything. Erice has that vibe. It’s sort of a fairy tale place.
Where the sea meets the sky.
Looking down on the Torretta Pepoli, part of Venus Castle.
A vendor stopped near the castle.
Norman Castle is poised on top of the steep cliff walls.
We had time to wander the streets but our visit ended too soon. It was time to board the bus and wind our way back down Mount Erice to Trapani. We had Broadway stars waiting for us on the ship.
I’m waiting for the autograph session with the stars. (Photo by Mary T.)
Autograph session. Every cruise, Playbill Travel creates a beautiful piece of frameable art that we can have signed by the Broadway performers on that trip.
For those of us (most of us) that don’t stalk the performers on the cruise, it’s an easy chance to say hi without feeling like you’re imposing.
I was disappointed though. Right before it started, we were told ‘no time for candid pictures and no conversations’– keep the line moving.
Seeing that this was the third time we’ve done these sessions– and the fact that the other two– moved quickly, even with photos and short conversations– I felt a little cheated.
I did sneak in a few pleasantries…. even if I didn’t get the chance for pictures.
Kate Baldwin.
Kate Baldwin in Concert. Another great concert tonight. This time, by the stunning Kate Baldwin.
She gave us an energetic and powerful mix of familiar and lesser-known Broadway songs from a wide variety of composers.
She has appeared on Broadway in Finian’s Rainbow, Giant and Big Fish. As I mentioned in an earlier post, Kate will star as Mrs. Malloy in Hello Dolly! with Bette Midler next spring.
Kate Baldwin.
Kate Baldwin during Broadway On the High Seas 7.
Kate Baldwin in Concert.
From Home. Before bed, I checked Facebook for the day’s pictures from the boarding facility we use back home. They post daily so owners can see their pet children at play. The biggest drawback about a long vacation is missing the children. Belle and Dudley seem to be doing fine without us– a good thing– but I always wonder if they miss us as much as we miss them.
Belle on the back left, Dudley second from the right.
Tomorrow we visit Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy.
Travel 2016: Day Ten – A Day In Malta
We were extremely anxious to get off the ship and explore a new country this morning. There was only a slight chance of rain, so we were looking forward to covering a lot of ground.
We had some beautiful views of the coast as we sailed into Valletta’s Grand Harbour in Malta. Instead of a regular excursion, we had wisely scheduled a car and guide so we could see more at our own pace.
Before the day was over we’d have toured Valletta, Vittoriosa, Rabat, and Mdina by car and on foot. We’d also do a car tour through Senglea and Cospicua.
Sailing into Grand Harbour, Valletta, Malta.
Malta from our ship.
We met our guide and walked from the port down to the waters edge to board a Dghaisa for a boat ride around the Grand Harbour before meeting our car. A dghaisa is a colorfully painted Maltese fishing boat, reminiscent of a gondola.
I really enjoyed seeing Malta from this viewpoint. I have to say though, that it was a bit of a rough ride. A little wet too. We got quite a bit of ocean spray as we hit the wave crests.
Touring the Grand Harbour in a Maltese dghaisa.
We took a short drive in the car, stopping at a spot to get another great view of the Grand Harbour.
Malta is a beautiful place. The cities we visited are made up of many densely occupied, narrow streets made of tile and stone. Most of the buildings are made of limestone, which is no surprise considering the island itself is one massive limestone rock. Walking through the streets, I loved the balconies, bay windows and shutters accenting the exteriors.
We walked down Strait Street, the most famous street in Malta. It is the hub of English, Italian and Maltese people and is known for its nightlife.
Malta’s most famous street, Strait Street.
On Strait Street.
We saw so much and covered so much ground–I better just touch on a few of the day’s highlights:
Grandmaster’s Palace or the Governor’s Palace. In St. George’s Square (Valletta), the Grandmaster’s Palace is the Office of the President of Malta. It was built between the 16th and 18th centuries.
Guards at the entrance of the Grandmaster’s Palace in St. George’s Square.
Looking into the courtyard of the Grandmaster’s Palace.
Casa Rocca Piccola is a 16th century palace and a ‘living museum’. The 9th Baron of Budach and the 9th Marquis de Piro, Nicholas de Piro; and his wife, Frances, are the first family to open their home to the public.
We actually met the Marchioness (Frances) when we arrived. She greeted us before our tour of their house. We later met the Marquis as he was searching the house for someone to help him with his new computer. They were both very friendly and welcoming.
The Marquis’ additional claim to fame is that he is a prolific author, having written many books on Maltese history.
At the entrance to the Casa Rocca Piccola.
The Green Room in Casa Rocca Piccola.
The Family Chapel.
The Summer Dining Room.
The Garden at Casa Rocca Piccola.
After touring the house, we were invited to tea, coffee and fresh cannoli in the garden.
Kiku is the family macaw who spends warm days greeting visitors in the garden. Kiku is even on Twitter!
Kiku enjoying the Garden.
Before leaving the house, we went underground, through tunnels to explore where over 100 people were sheltered from bombing during WWII. It was dark, damp and a little chilling.
St. John’s Co-Cathedral was built in the 1570’s and dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. It contains nine chapels. It barely escaped destruction in World War II– all the art having been moved out and hidden– so none of it was lost. A major restoration began in the late 1980’s. It is considered one of the finest examples of surviving Baroque architecture in Europe.
The Facade of St. John’s Co-Cathedral under renovation.
Ornate Walls and Ceilings inside St. John’s Co-Cathedral.
St. John’s Co-Cathedral.
The marble floor is actually a series of tombs.
We enjoyed a nice walk through Valletta before rejoining our car.
I loved the splashes of color against the limestone.
Many colorful balconies and bay windows accent the buildings in Valletta.
After another short drive, we had a wonderful three course lunch at Palazzo Castelletti in Rabat. Our guide did not dine with us and was visibly frustrated by the slow service as she was trying to keep us on schedule. She kept poking her head in the room to see if we were being served and then would go find a server to bring the next course. It was sort of funny. Luckily, we missed a little rain while we were dining.
Mdina. After lunch, we finished our day with a relaxing walk through the walled city of Mdina. Total population of the “Silent City” is 300. Mdina was once the capitol of Malta. It was founded in the 8th century BC.
One of the narrow streets in Mdina.
Exploring the walled city of Mdina.
A visit to the Carmelite Priority Museum is intended to give the public a look into the living traditions of a Carmelite monastery. The 17th century building has been renovated and stands as an example of a monastic cloister.
In the halls of the Carmelite Priory.
Frescoes in the refectory at Carmelite Priory.
We ended our day in Malta overlooking the country. Our viewpoint from the high walls of Mdina was impressive. From there, we walk back through the city to our car which took us back to the ship.
I’m really glad we chose to see Malta this way, even if we still only saw a fraction of it. It’s a beautiful country.
Looking out over Malta, the high wall of Mdina to the right.
Looking out at the clustered buildings of Malta from the city of Mdina.
Bougainvillea climbing the wall of a building in Mdina.
Back to Broadway (On the High Seas 7). We got back on board just in time for the late afternoon/early evening offering: a talkback with Faith Prince and Jennifer Simard, hosted by Seth Rudetsky. They both talked about their lives and careers ‘in the business’. Most recently, they both starred in Seth Rudestsky’s short-run Broadway musical, Disaster!
Faith Prince, Seth Rudetsky and Jennifer Simard discuss life in the theatre.
Jennifer Simard is incredibly talented. I hadn’t heard of her prior to her run in Disaster! this past year. A role for which she was Tony nominated in the Best Featured Actress category. She has an extensive list of credits on and off-Broadway including Sister Act, Shrek and several editions of Forbidden Broadway. It was recently announced that she will hit Broadway with Bette Midler in Hello Dolly! this spring as the scene-stealing Ernestina.
Faith Prince is known primarily for her comedic and musical work in such productions as Guys and Dolls (1992 Revival, Tony Winner) and Bells Are Ringing I was lucky enough to see her in the ill-fated musical, Nick and Nora, and the off-Broadway production of Falsettoland, which later became the second act of the Broadway musical, Falsettos. Her heartbreaking rendition of “Holding to the Ground” was another one of those pinnacle moments in theatre for me.
Michael and I saw her moving performance in A Catered Affair (2008); and last year in the Chicago, pre-Broadway engagement of The First Wives Club playing opposite Carmen Cusack and our friend Christine Sherrill.
Both Faith and Jennifer were on the cruise as “Ambassadors” so they weren’t going to be doing full out concerts. During the talkback we did get a musical number from each of them. Faith Prince treated us to her delightful rendition of “Broadway Baby“, while Jennifer Simard had the audience rolling in the aisles with her imitation of Bernadette Peters doing “Rose’s Turn” from Gypsy.
Faith Prince during the afternoon talkback.
Jennifer Simard sharing her experiences.
One other note: Faith arrived on the cruise late, having had issues with her flight. If THAT wasn’t bad enough– the airline lost her luggage for three days. It’s amazing how someone can get by with only one outfit and a few accessories. She looked great!
After the long day, I skipped dinner and laid down for a little bit…ordered room service and then took my time getting ready for the evening’s concert.
Lindsay Mendez in Concert. Can I say perfection? I can’t imagine anyone being better or putting together a better set for a show.
Lindsay performed a great concert on last year’s cruise (BOTHS5) and somehow managed to outdo herself. She is best known for her Broadway performances in Godspell, Grease, as Elphaba in Wicked and her critically acclaimed performance off-Broadway in Dogfight.
Lindsay married her husband, Philip Wakefield, in May. As a special treat for the audience, she brought him on stage for one of her numbers, playing the drums. She also did a fun duet with Laura Osnes, recreating “It’s Raining On Prom Night” from their revival of Grease.
Lindsay Mendez with Seth Rudetsky on the piano.
Philip Wakefield on drums.
Lindsay Mendez bringing down the house.
Lindsay Mendez and Laura Osnes team up to recreate a number from Grease.
After a wonderful show, a few of us gathered at our usual spot and everyone was abuzz about Lindsay’s great concert. We turned in before midnight, another full day ahead.
Next stop: Trapani, Sicily.
Travel 2016: Day Nine – And God Said, Let There Be Rain… And Waves…Lots and Lots of Waves
Soon It’s Gonna Rain. We knew for a couple days there was a likely chance of rain today. As a matter of fact, last night the prediction was above 80%. Not just a shower… rain all day. Troupers that we are– and because you can’t cancel an excursion without at least a 48 hour notice (without paying anyway)– We got up early, dressed appropriately, had breakfast and watched as we were hit with the first down pour.
Our tour was supposed to take us to explore Taormina and Castelmola this morning. The key phrase here is supposed to. All tours ended up being cancelled with ongoing weather concerns anticipated throughout the day and because we were supposed to tender into port. The water was just to rough to safely make it to and from land.
Unfortunately for us, the decision was not made until around 10 AM, long after our scheduled tours were supposed to have started. This left us in limbo, waiting for the final word. It’s too bad we hadn’t known the night before because we could have caught up on some much needed sleep. This is just one of the chances you take with cruise travel.
What To Do? The good news was that the change in plans gave us time to socialize. We had a favorite spot where many of the same people would gather at some point, day to day, throughout the week. The conversations were always lively and anything was fair game– we didn’t just talk Broadway. You could frequently find us with Janet, Paul, Bill and a few others engaging in some animated fashion. One of my favorite ongoing discussions was with Susan, Champ (He was in the cabin next to us on the last cruise with the wall that slid open!) and Philip (Lindsay Mendez’s husband) discussing the upcoming election. After more than a week away from home, I was itching to get some things off my chest.
One thing that I’ve noticed– if you put a group of theatre lovers together in a room– they can talk about pretty much anything, speak honestly and not be attacked by anyone for a differing viewpoint of belief. I find it really comforting. Theatre people are the most accepting, loving, understanding and all-inclusive group I know.
While I was in deep conversation, Michael was off with Mary, Linda and Wendy playing euchre in the card room.
Let’s Put On A Show! In typical fashion, Phil Birsh (CEO of Playbill) and Seth Rudetsky (Music Director on BOTHS) rallied the troupes — Mickey and Judy style– throwing together a really fun, entertaining show with many of the Broadway performers contributing.
Laura Osnes, fresh off her performance the night before, led off the truly enjoyable set of musical numbers this afternoon.
Laura Osnes
Charles Busch
Jennifer Simard
Lindsay Mendez
Faith Prince
Chatterbox. As originally scheduled for late afternoon, Seth Rudetsky hosted a Chatterbox session with Brenda Braxton and his longtime friend, Andrea Burns. I always like hearing artists talk about their experiences in the business and sharing their highs and lows.
Brenda Braxton was on the cruise as a “Broadway Ambassador”, not a scheduled performer, per se. I saw her in Legs Diamond with Peter Allen many years ago and got the chance to share that with her later in the cruise.
Brenda Braxton
Old friends Seth Rudetsky and Andrea Burns.
Sea Sick? As it turned out, we really didn’t experience much rain during the day but the water was rough. It continued to be throughout the evening. I’ve been on boats that were rocking and swaying a whole lot worse but for some reason it really started to get to me at dinner. I left halfway through and Michael had my entree sent to the room.
I wanted to just stay in bed, only I wasn’t about to miss tonight’s concert. I did start feeling better as the evening wore on.
Adam Pascal in Concert. If you know me or have read my blog, you know that RENT is my all-time favorite musical. So how can I not love Adam Pascal? One of my pinnacle, theatregoing experiences was Adam’s performance of One Song Glory the first time I saw him in RENT. It’s forever etched in my brain.
Adam also starred on Broadway in AIDA, Memphis, Chicago, Disaster! and currently, Something Rotten. He also played Freddy in the highly-acclaimed concert version of Chess with Josh Groban and Idina Menzel.
The format for Adam’s concert tonight, was an informal sing-interview format with music director Seth Rudetsky. It was a great evening– showing off his versatility, powerhouse vocals and occasionally accompanying himself on guitar.
Adam Pascal
Adam Pascal accompanying himself on guitar.
Adam Pascal with Seth Rudetsky.
After the show– a nightcap with friends and then off to bed. Tomorrow Michael and I have a private car and guide scheduled for a whirlwind tour of Malta!
Travel 2016: Sacred Beauty – Churches of Rome – A Photo Essay
There are so many beautiful houses of worship in Rome. Churches, Cathedrals, Basilicas — no matter what they are called, they are full of a rich history and artistry that is a wonder to behold.
On our full day of touring Rome, Michael and I found ourselves wandering in many of these beautiful sanctuaries. They stand open, throughout the day, welcoming anyone to enter.
Here is a sampling of the churches we visited. Many had origins back to the 1st Century but all the current structures date back to as early as the 16th century.
All Saints’ Anglican Church – Est. 1887
Detail inside All Saints’ Anglican Church, Rome.
The Interior of All Saints’ Anglican Church.
Chiesa de Gesu E Maria – Est. 1602
The exterior of Chiesa de Gesu E Maria.
The interior sanctuary of Chiesa de Gesu E Maria.
The Pipe Organ Loft.
The ceiling inside Chiesa de Gesu E Maria.
The confessional.
Statuary in Chiesa de Gesu E Maria.
Basilica S. Giacomo – Est. 1600
The Interior of Basilica S. Giacomo.
The domed ceiling of Basilica S. Giacomo.
An angel at watch.
Basilica dei SS Ambrogio E Carlo – Est. 1610
The exterior of Basilica dei SS Ambrogio E Carlo.
The breathtaking interior of Basilica dei SS Ambrogio E Carlo.
The ornate ceiling in Basilica dei SS Ambrogio E Carlo.
Chiesa di San Marcello al Corso – Est. 309 AD , rebuilt 1597
The Exterior of Chiesa di San Marcello al Corso.
The Interior of Chiesa di San Marcello al Corso.
Close up of the dome.
Oratorio del Santissimo Crocifisso – Est. 1568
Exterior of Oratorio del Santissimo Crocifisso.
Interior of Oratorio del Santissimo Crocifisso.
The ceiling of Oratorio del Santissimo Crocifisso.
I loved the shaft of sunlight playing on the wall.
Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi – Est. 1650
The exterior of Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi.
The Interior of Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi.
Basilica dei SS. XII Apostoli – Est. 499, rebuilt 1714
The Interior of Basilica dei SS. XII Apostoli.
I loved the chandeliers above the altar dome.
Looking up from the lower level in Basilica dei SS. XII Apostoli.
Chiesa San Luigi dei Francesi – Est. 1589
The Interior of Chiesa San Luigi dei Francesi.
Chiesa San Luigi dei Francesi.
Chiesa di Santi’ Agnese in Agone – Est. 1652
The Interior of Chiesa di Santi’ Agnese in Agone.
The Pipe Organ of Chiesa di Santi’ Agnese in Agone.
The magnificent ceiling of Chiesa di Santi’ Agnese in Agone.
Travel 2016: Day Six – Rome in a Day & Getting Lost Along the Way
What better way is there to discover a new city than to literally get lost in it? Okay, so maybe not your first choice and it wasn’t ours either– well, kinda-sorta.
Michael and I, wind-blown on Palatine Hill, overlooking the Roman Forum.
At breakfast, everyone had pretty much decided they were doing there own thing. I think Michael and I were the only ones determined to really go sightseeing and see as much as possible.
The best advice I could find online suggested seeing Rome on foot, skipping the tours and the all-access packages like the Rome Pass and the HOHO bus tickets. We had what we thought was a very modest list of sights we had to see. We figured we’d start at the Spanish Steps since it was closest, then work our way down to end at the Colosseum and Roman Forum. We’d just zig-zag across the city and take in what we could, leaving room for a little exploration along the way.
Obelisk in the Piazza Trinità dei Monti.
We left the hotel using the Map.Me app… and right off, I thought the direction we were going didn’t make a lot of sense. Long story, short– we walked about a half mile to nowhere. Seriously, we reached a point where there wasn’t even a sidewalk! We knew we’d have to turn around, backtrack and pretty much start over. Nothing like getting lost first thing– and not in a good way.
Once we’d reached the Piazza Trinità dei Monti, located at the top of the Spanish Steps, we didn’t seem to have anymore problems with the GPS and the app. Still, with the Spanish Steps closed, we had to find a different route down to the base to be able to see them. Up top there was a barricade blocking it all off.
We found our way down to the Piazza di Spagna at the base of the Spanish Steps. The steps had been closed for renovation for a number of months. Coincidentally, they had the dedication and reopened them, later that same afternoon after we had visited them.
Looking at the Spanish Steps from the Piazza di Spagna. The Piazza Trinità dei Monti is at the top.
Horse and carriages lined up near the Spanish Steps.
Just to the southeast, we found the Colonna della Immacolata (Column of the Immaculate Conception) in the Piazza Mignanelli. From here we started our leisure stroll, turning down streets that looked promising and stopping by shops and visiting many churches. (My next post will just focus on the churches and cathedrals we happened upon.)
The Colonna della Immacolata (Column of the Immaculate Conception) in the Piazza Mignanelli.
Impressive statuary just inside the entrance of a small restaurant in Rome.
Wandering the streets of Rome.
We saw the Piazza del Popolo from a distance and wandered through. The name’s modern translation is “People’s Square”. I found it to be one of the more beautiful piazzas we encountered.
The beautiful Piazza del Popolo.
Part of the fountain framed by the Porta del Popolo in the background.
Next we found Piazza Colonna with the striking and detailed Column of Marcus Aurelius. Adjoining the piazza is the seat of the Italian Government.
Close up detail of the Column of Marcus Aurelius with the clock of the Palazzo Wedekind in the background.
Piazza Colonna.
Wandering through the streets of Rome.
One of many News Kiosks found throughout Rome.
I love the architecture and classic style of the buildings found throughout Rome. I also found the numerous news kiosks very charming.
There is literally something new to see around every corner in central Rome. I could spend days just wandering the city aimlessly.
Piazza di Trevi – Completed in 1762, the Rococo (Late Baroque) Trevi Fountain fed by an aqueduct that was built in 19 BC. It is one of the most famous fountains in the world. It is also the centerpiece of this small, extremely claustrophobic piazza.
There is the legend that if you throw a coin in the fountain… you will return to Rome one day. Well, it was so crowded, there was no way we were going to get close enough without taking up valuable time- so no wish was made.
The world famous Trevi Fountain.
The Trevi Fountain in the Piazza di Trevi.
Bernini’s Elephant and Obelisk.
Near the Pantheon, was the Elephant and Obelisk designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The Egyptian Obelisk was excavated nearby.
The combined work was unveiled in 1667 in its home in the Piazza Della Minerva.
Piazza della Rotonda – is the location of the Pantheon – formally a Roman temple and now a church. It’s excellent condition is due, in part, to its continuous use throughout history.
When you consider the age (completed in 125 AD) and its condition, it really is a world-wonder. The interior is primarily lit by the sun through the nearly 30 foot oculus above, in the center dome.
The Pantheon in Rome.
Looking up at the oculus in the Pantheon.
The sun casting its rays on the Palazzo Madama.
The Palazzo Madama is the seat of the Senate of the Italian Republic; built on top of the ruins of the ancient baths of Nero.
We happened to stumble upon the changing of the guard taking place as we passed.
The changing of the guard at the Palazzo Madama.
Close up of the Bernini Fountain in Piazza Navona.
Piazza Navona is one of the most popular and visited piazzas in Rome. It features three fountains, including Bernini’s world famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) as the centerpiece.
The historic significance of the space is that it was built on the site of the Stadium of the Domitian, also known as Circus Agonalis. It was an important competition stadium back in the first century AD.
At one time, it was also the home of the city market. Over the years, many films have featured scenes that were shot here.
Entering the Piazza Navona.
The historic Piazza Navona.
Finding the Sacred area del Argentina was completely unexpected. In 1927, during demolition work, parts of the holy area were discovered. The original square was uncovered that includes the ruins of four Roman temples and part of Pompey’s Theatre, with portions of the ruins dating back to 241 BC. Julius Caesar was believed to have been assassinated in this square. The area is currently undergoing restoration.
It is also the location of Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, a no-kill shelter run by volunteers. In addition to protecting them, they sterilizes the cats to help control the city’s feral cat population. There is a no-kill law in Rome protecting homeless cats. We didn’t see any cats here on our visit.
The Sacred area del Argentina.
Sacred area del Argentina, believed to be the site of Julius Caesar’s assassination.
The Piazza Venezia is the central hub of Rome. We actually passed through here four times throughout the day. On one side is the Palazzo Vallenti framed by two churches.
Also on the piazza is Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland), built in honor of Victor Emmanuel the first king of a unified Italy. It was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1885 but not completed until 1925. It is the largest monument in Rome. Immense in size, it is despised by many because a large part of Capitoline Hill and its historic artifacts were destroyed in order to build it.
Near the Piazza Venezia.
The Altar of the Fatherland.
Outside the Colosseum.
Colosseum (or Coliseum) was something we had to see. We’d wisely purchased tickets ahead of time to avoid the lines. It included the Colosseum and Palatine Hill/Roman Forum which could be used on two separate days, but only one entry into each location.
When we arrived, the line to get into the Colosseum, even with a ticket, was pretty long. We let a guide on the street talk us into joining a group tour (for only a few Euros since we already had tickets) and he said we’d get in right away. Big mistake. We waited another 20 minutes and still had to wait to get in the queue. We ended up only staying with the tour a short time because the guide was long-winded and wasn’t going any place fast. So we left the group and finished it on our own.
The Colosseum is massive and quite impressive. I’ll admit that the interior was actually in a greater state of decomposition than I expected. Still, iconic– a must-see when visiting Rome.
Looking up at the Colosseum.
Inside the Colosseum.
Leaving the Colosseum and starting to get a little tired, we continued on to Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. The breathing-taking views from the hill were the highlight of the day. One of the seven hills of Rome, it is one of the oldest areas of the city. With multiple viewing points, we had exceptional panoramic views of Rome, the Colosseum and the Roman Forum below.
Overlooking the Roman Forum from Palatine Hill.
Incredible view of Rome from Palatine Hill.
Walking through the Roman Forum with Palatine Hill in the background.
Columns and excavated pieces in the Roman Forum.
Majestic Columns surviving the ravages of time in the Roman Forum.
After the Forum, we walked out past the Piazza Venezia and on to the Via del Corso where we wisely hailed a taxi back to the hotel. In all, we walked fourteen and a half miles through the city.
Back at the hotel, we had an early dinner/late lunch, having not eaten since breakfast. We had about an hour to kill before we had to get ready for the evening’s reception.
Broadway On the High Seas 7 Reception. As with the last cruise, Playbill Travel hosted a pre-cruise reception with champagne and entertainment. It was a chance to socialize and see friends from past cruises we hadn’t seen yet. We also caught up again with Anthony and Michael, that we met in London.
So in addition to the fact that I was standing a few feet away from Adam Pascal (the original Roger in RENT) during the entertainment– the highlight of the evening was hearing Kate Baldwin sing “Ribbons Down My Back” from Hello Dolly. She will be performing as Mrs. Malloy on Broadway in the upcoming revival starring Bette Midler.
Afterwards, we took a stroll down the street for Gelato with George and Mary before calling it a night.
I think we did pretty good seeing Rome in a day. Not to mention all the churches we also visited, that I’ll share in my next post. (We’re spending the day at the Vatican after the cruise.)
We managed to get lost literally and figuratively in one the most beautiful, historic cities in the world.
Bellissima Roma!
Travel 2016: Day Five – Farewell London, Ciao Roma!
The Grand Staircase at the St. Pancras Renassaince Hotel London.
Saying goodbye to a city you’re visiting can be hard. Especially when you’ve had great experiences and stayed in a wonderful place.
This was my early morning– saying goodbye to St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel. Before breakfast, bags already packed, I walked through the hotel one last time.
I found myself back at the grand staircase. I had to walk all the way up and down it one last time.
Some London Takeaways
- Public transportation is a must in London. It’s much too big and spread out to walk. Walking neighborhoods, yes; but not if you are sightseeing all over the city.
- We purchased and used the London Pass. We probably just about broke even with what we saw using it and saved time not waiting in lines. I know we visited a few spots we wouldn’t have, had we not had it. If you are the type of traveler that wants to see as much as possible (in and out), it’s likely a good investment. If you are the type that prefers longer visits, especially at museums, for example– you are probably going to save money paying as you go.
- Travel Guides can be handy but for me, I found them unnecessary (practically useless) and it certainly wouldn’t have been practical to carry around the city. If you do your research online ahead of time– there’s no need to purchase/carry/take a book.
- Get a good GPS phone map (app) like Maps.Me to help you get around. I found it to be an invaluable tool and never had to stop and ask directions while using it.
- Safety was never a concern during our visit. Of course, you should always be cautious but I never felt I was in a dangerous or risky situation. I honestly felt safer in London than I did in my last Chicago overnight visit, 45 minutes from home. I bring this up because in Rick Steve’s London 2016, he overemphasizes the necessity of safety steps, to the point of fear mongering.
London Sightings
A few things I haven’t mentioned:
Punch Tavern.
Traditional London Pubs, you know, with the old-style classic exteriors– are abundant. I always love sighting unique architecture. Another thing I noticed as we passed many restaurants– in London, creating a unique atmosphere and ambiance is not only important, it’s the norm. This can be said of many of the small retail shops as well. I mean, uniquely different. It appears British entrepreneurs have a better understanding of what will set themselves apart and draw in the clientele. American business owner should take notice.
A British Hearse leading a funeral procession.
Classic British Hearse. While we were on the HOHO Bus, we were passed by a funeral procession and it was interesting to see a British Hearse with large side windows and wreath rails. The coffin and the many floral tributes were in full display to all it passed. You hardly see this in America. The hearse windows are almost always tinted or curtained.
British Telephone Kiosk in the Queen’s Gate neighborhood.
British Telephone Kiosks are alive and well. Often referred to as the Red Telephone Box ; there were many incarnations, with the most common ones (seen today) being the “K6”. We saw them all over London in Red, Green and Black. With the popularity of cell phones, many of the boxes are being re-purposed into WIFI, phone-charging and even work stations. The good news is that these icons aren’t going away.
My View of London
Looking back, I see London as an extremely friendly, warm and inviting city. It’s not at all what I had expected. I thought it would be more like downtown Chicago or NYC. It is full of neighborhood charm, while at the same time– steeped in massive amounts of culture and historic places of interest. As old as London is, it retains its historic appeal, yet feels comfortable and modern at the same time. It is busy– but not chaotic; and it is a quiet city, compared to many others I’ve visited.
This photo probably best embodies how I feel about/picture London in my head:
A typical London street.
Off to Rome
Our car to Heathrow arrived early and we were there in a flash. I was so glad we weren’t hauling our luggage on the Tube again. The flight to Rome was on time and we had no issues at the airport or with our flight.
Our transportation and hotel had been arranged through Playbill Travel, so a car was waiting for us at the airport when we arrived in Rome.
Our driver didn’t take the most scenic route to the hotel. I was a little taken aback by the rundown, graffiti-covered buildings on the outskirts of the city. It got better the further in we got, finally arriving at the Westin Excelsior Hotel, a few blocks from the Borghese Gardens.
We arrived mid afternoon and had a short wait before our room was ready. The first thing I noticed when we arrived were the armed soldiers across the street. That was a little unnerving. Then I discovered the following day that we were next door to the American Embassy, which explained the added security.
While we waited for our room, we started looking to see what friends from past cruises had arrived. We knew our friends George and Mary had gotten there that morning– if we could only find them!
The Westin Excelsior in Rome.
We checked in around 4 pm. –Our room was nice enough. — And we got settled in.
Our room in the Westin Excelsior.
We went down to the Playbill Reception Desk, got our stuff and ran into a bunch of friends. After chatting for awhile, we decided to make things simple and have dinner in the hotel.
Eight of us met for dinner at the Doney, and enjoyed good food and conversation before retiring for the night. A big day tomorrow!
Italian Stone Pines form a canopy over Borghese Gardens.
How Do You Measure 525600 Minutes? 