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The Magic of Macon, France

(NOTE: I will be adding more contentto this post in the very new future! I am reworking some of my blog– I apologize for the inconvenience. THANK YOU FOR VISITING!)

 

5/27/17- We docked at Quai des Marans in Macon, France for the last full day of our cruise on the Rhone River. After breakfast, many people took excursions out of the city, to enjoy some of the local vineyards. A small group of us chose to stay in Macon, and after a brief introduction to the layout of the city by our concierge, we set out on a truly beautiful walk through this magical city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Autograph Signing On Board.

 

 

 

Rebecca Luker In Concert.

 

Rebecca Luker In Concert.

Rebecca Luker’s Broadway roles include Helen in FUN HOME. CINDERELLA’S Fairy Godmother, Marie. Winifred in the original Broadway production of MARY POPPINS (Tony Award nomination), Claudia Nardi in NINE opposite Antonio Banderas, Marian Paroo in THE MUSIC MAN (Tony Award nomination, Drama Desk Award nomination & Outer Critics Circle Award nomination), Maria in THE SOUND OF MUSIC (Outer Critics Circle Award nomination); Magnolia in SHOWBOAT (Tony Award nomination), Lily in THE SECRET GARDEN (Drama Desk Nomination); Christine in THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA. With the New York City Opera Ms. Luker was featured in X (THE LIFE AND TIMES OF MALCOLM X) and was Fiona in BRIGADOON. Off-Broadway she starred in Maury Yeston’s DEATH TAKES A HOLIDAY – Outer Critics Circle nomination (Roundabout, 2011), the world premiere of A.R.Gurney’s INDIAN BLOOD (Primary Stages), CAN’T LET GO (Keen Company) and THE VAGINA MONOLOGUES. – http://www.rebeccaluker.com/

 

Rebecca Luker entertains on Playbill Travel’s ‘Broadway On the Rhone’.

 

Rebecca Luker

 

Rebecca Luker

 

Travel Date: May 27, 2017, Saturday (Day 15)

Playbill Travel’s “Broadway On the Rhone”

A Taste of Twin Cities: Tournon-sur-Rhône and Tain-l’Hermitage

5/25/17- Today we had the opportunity to explore the twin cities of Tournon-sur-Rhône and Tain-l’Hermitage in the heart of the Côtes du Rhône, wine-producing region of southern France. Separated by the Rhone River and connected by the 1847 Marc Sequin Suspension Bridge (original 1824), the two cities are easily accessible to one another via this historic pedestrian bridge.

 

The design of the Marc Sequin Suspension Bridge inspired the design of New York’s Brooklyn Bridge and the construction of many other bridges across Europe.

 

Tournon frames the Marc Sequin Suspension Bridge from the Tain-l’Hermitage side of the Rhone River.

 

We were docked on the Tain-l’Hermitage side of the river and began our visit touring there first. Of the two cities, Tain-l’Hermitage has the more modern, industrial town center. Though it doesn’t feel at all touristy, it has received many visitors including Thomas Jefferson.

 

Fountain in the square, Tain-l’Hermitage, with their famous vineyard hills in the background.

 

Looking up the steep hillside vineyard.

 

The vineyards above Tain-l’Hermitage.

 

With a population of just under 6,000, Tain-l’Hermitage has a relaxed, small town feel that is very welcoming. We enjoyed a wine-tasting at the famous Cave A Vins Fromages. We sampled many different local wines from the region.

I’ll say this: I’m really not a fan of the red wines from southern France. Of course, this should mean nothing to a true wine connoisseur. I know next to nothing about what makes a good wine– only what I like. Of the probably (close to) two dozen red wines I sampled during this trip, I might have liked one or two. On the other hand, I enjoyed nearly all the white wines from the region.

 

Ready for our wine tasting.

 

Across from the shop, we wandered through a rather large open air market before leisurely walking back towards the Rhone river.

 

Crossing the Marc Sequin Bridge to Tournon.

 

Ruins on the hillside in Tournon.

 

The steeple and clock tower of St. Vincent.

 

A view of the city of Tournon on the Rhone River.

We finished our visit across the bridge in the (older) city of Tournon. With a population of about 11,000, it remains a quiet, pleasant little town; not unlike many others found throughout Europe. We enjoyed a relaxing walk through the streets, especially enjoying the sunshine.

Tournon Castle.

 

Facing the river, is a War Memorial created by sculptor Antoine Sartorio on the granite rock below Tournon Castle.

 

The streets of Tournon.

 

We spotted these beautiful dogs outside the entrance of Church Saint-Julien in Tournon.

 

Church Saint-Julien in Tournon, France.

 

Caisse d’Epargne in the town centre of Tournon-sur-Rhône, Ardèche, France.

 

Roof peaks and towers of the Gabriel Faure School, Tournon-sur-Rhône, Ardèche, France.

 

Comprehensive School Gabriel Faure founded in 1536. “Lycée Gabriel Faure”.

 

The Vineyards of Tain-l’Hermitage, against a beautiful blue sky, as we crossed the bridge, returning to our ship.

 

Our floating home on Rhone River, Uniworld’s luxury ship, the S.S. Catherine.

 

James Barbour In Concert.

 

James Barbour.

 

JAMES BARBOUR just finished starring on Broadway for nearly three years as The Phantom in The Phantom of the Opera. He has also starred on Broadway as Sydney Carton in A Tale of Two Cities (Drama Desk, Drama League, Outer Critics Circle awards nominations), Czolgosz in Assassins, The Beast in Beauty & the Beast, Billy Bigelow in Carousel, Officer Lockstock in Urinetown and Edward Rochester in Jane Eyre (Drama League nomination). James also appeared on Broadway in Cyrano, opposite Jeremy Irons in Camelot and in the national tour of The Secret Garden. Other recent credits: Jean Valjean in Les Misérables (LA Ovation Award, Best Actor), Daryl Van Horne in The Witches of Eastwick (U.S. premiere), Daddy Hogan in Anna Nicole (BAM). TV: “The District,” “Just Shoot Me,” “Flashpoint,” “Sex and the City,” “Ed,” “That’s Life,” “Beauty & the Beast in Concert” (CBS), “Great Performances,” “An American Experience,” “A Tale of Two Cities” (PBS). Film: Alchemy, Adam Sandler’s Eight Crazy Nights, Waiting for Lefty, Twinkle Toes with Sally Kirkland. Recordings: Broadway in Concert, The Gift, Dracula, Tears from Heaven, The Count of Monte Cristo, Excalibur, his many cast recordings and two solo CDs, A Gift of Christmas and Bring Me Giants. He hosts TV’s “James Barbour Now” on WITNation.com. His production company, Laughing Dog Media, creates and controls original content for VoiceAmerica.tv’s new Internet TV network. JamesBarbour.com

 

Broadway On the Rhone concert performed by James Barbour.

 

We thoroughly enjoyed James Barbour’s evening of story and song. He has a rich, beautiful voice and masterfully connected his passion to the heart of the audience.

 

Broadway’s current Phantom, James Barbour entertains on Playbill Travel’s Broadway On the Rhone.

 

Travel Date: May 25, 2017, Thursday (Day 13)

Playbill Travel’s “Broadway On the Rhone”

Travel 2017: A Special Concert in Viviers: Day Twelve

We woke up this morning to another beautiful sunrise. This time, docked at Viviers in southern Ardèche, we had the beautiful Viviers Suspension Bridge in full view from our balcony. We’ve had the most wonderful weather in southern France!

 

Viviers Suspension Bridge.

 

We decided ahead of time to join our friends for a morning walking tour of Vivier.

Our small group entered town, enjoying a relaxing walk under the canopy of ancient Plane trees before reaching the town’s center. We then slowly made our way to the upper town, as our guide gave us some history and noted points of interest along the way.

The small commune of Viviers, dates back to the 5th century. Today, it has less than 4,000 residents. It is a medieval town that has largely escaped the ravages of time. Scenes from the 2000 movie, Chocolat (Johnny Depp), were filmed here.

 

Strolling to town under a canopy of Plane Trees.

 

The Quiet Streets of Viviers.

 

A Famous Viviers Butcher Shop.

 

Sausages, anyone?

 

One of the buildings tied to an interesting piece of local history is the Maison des Chevaliers, or the House of the Knights. The age of the actual structure of the building is unknown but the fascade was constructed between 1545 and 1560. Several houses were combined to create what was to become the House of Knights for Noel Albert.

Albert, a rich merchant– had converted to Protestantism, opposed the king– and as a result, was tried and beheaded in 1568. As bailiff of the bishop of Viviers, he was believed to have been skimming money from the taxes he collected as well.

 

On the left, Maison des Chevaliers, the House of the Knights.

 

Marianne- Goddess of Liberty.

 

Beautiful Centuries-Old Buildings.

 

Roses climb many of the buildings’ fascades in Viviers.

 

Morning Sunlight Seemed to Stream Through Every Possible Nook and Cranny as we approach the entrance to Viviers Cathedral.

 

Saint-Michel Tower (11th century) of the St. Vincent Cathedral.

 

Entering a covered passageway in Viviers.

 

The Sampzon House (16th Century) Viviers, France.

 

Saint Vincent Cathedral.

 

Beautiful scenic spots everywhere.

 

Looking out over Viviers and the countryside.

 

The Fortress Walls of Viviers from the Upper Town.

 

Medieval St. Vincent Cathedral.

 

Gargoyles of St. Vincent.

 

Viviers Rooftops from Belvédère de Châteauvieux.

 

Viviers From Belvédère de Châteauvieux.

 

Château de l’Ourse in Belvédère de Châteauvieux Square.

 

We visited the shop of Jean Luc Allonneau, Atelier 3 Ceramiques where he has been handcrafting functional ceramic pieces since 1981. After a tour of his workshop, he gave us a brief demonstration at the potters’ wheel.

Independent craftsmen like this are finding it more and more difficult to stay open and competitive with the accessibility of mass produced goods– priced much lower but of inferior material and design.

Jean Luc still hand selects his materials and completes each piece entirely on his own. The process for each, takes more than a month to complete with drying, firing and glazing to be done. He produces pots and dinnerware collections in addition to some pieces created from handmade molds.

 

Atelier 3 Ceramiques Handcrafted Pottery Shop.

 

Inside Atelier 3 Ceramiques pottery.

 

Jean Luc Allonneau at work.

 

On the street in Viviers. The 11th Century Clock Tower on the right.

 

Viviers is the  birthplace of the Society of Lime and Cement Lafarge. Naturally occurring hydraulic limestone is mined here. The lime is burned to create a product that is used in mortar for construction.

I was particularly interested in this because the brick in our own 1889 house– is held together with a lime-mortar that has to be specially mixed for tuck-pointing (repair).  It is seldom used today in new construction– now, mostly Portland Cement. The advantages of lime include a slow drying process and a much stronger, resilient, finished product.

 

Mining Lime Lafarge.

 

On our way back to the ship, we stopped for a photo op with our friends before returning to the ship for a late lunch. We had a few hours before we would walk back into town for a special concert Playbill had arranged for us.

 

Group Photo Op with Friends.

 

Viviers Cathedral aka St. Vincent Cathedral. Earlier in the day, we didn’t have a chance to go inside the cathedral but we saw the exterior from virtually every angle. I suppose, aside from the fact that we saw the performers entering to rehearse, when we passed in the morning– the main reason was: we’d return for our special concert in the afternoon.

St. Vincent Cathedral, built in the 11th century, is the smallest, if not the oldest, medieval cathedral in France that is still active today.

During the French Wars of Religion between the Catholics and the Protestants in the 16th century, the vaulted ceiling was destroyed. It was not  rebuilt until the 18th century.

At the front of the church, in the semicircular apse, hang all but one of their highly prized tapestries. Two were stolen from the church in the 1970’s and one was later recovered (found in Italy). The famous 18th century royal tapestries were manufactured by Gobelins in Paris, representing scenes from the Bible. You can see the empty frame of the stolen tapestry, which depicted The Last Supper, in the picture below.

 

 

Inside St. Vincent Cathedral, Viviers.

 

Chandelier in St. Vincent.

 

Concert at Viviers Cathedral. This was a first for Playbill Travel. Not only were we getting a concert in a beautiful venue– they were doing a second concert for the entire town, after ours. So you might say– ours was the dress rehearsal. (Wink.)

 

Left to Right, James Barbour, Liz Callaway, Rebecca Luker and Paulo Szot open “A Concert at Viviers Cathedral”.

 

The concert truly was special. Having the chance to hear some of the great music of Broadway, resonating through this beautiful cathedral was breathtaking. The performances were great and the setting gave it an added magical touch. James Barbour, Liz Callaway, Rebecca Luker, John McDaniel and Paulo Szot all received a well-deserved standing ovation. A truly memorable event.

 

James Barbour.

 

Rebecca Luker ‘s angelic voice fills the cathedral with “The Sound of Music”.

 

Paulo Szot’s inspiring and thunderous, “The Impossible Dream”, was one of the highlights .

 

Liz Callaway relives “Memory” from Cats.

 

Musical Director John McDaniel singing, “Anyone Can Whistle.

 

James Barbour and Rebecca Luker serenade one another.

 

Paulo Szot and Liz Callaway share a tender moment, singing Sondheim’s “With So Little To Be Sure Of”.

 

The Broadway on the Rhone Performance in St. Vincent Cathedral, Viviers, France.

 

We found out later, that after our concert, several of the performers thought they’d get a bite to eat in town between shows. Only one problem– everything had closed down because everyone was going to the concert! The whole town attended, including the mayor. Some said they didn’t know what to expect from the concert. Very quickly they were drawn in, thrilled when they recognized some of famous Broadway tunes. The crowd loved it and it was a huge success.

Bravo, Playbill Travel!

 

Travel Date: May 24, 2017, Wednesday (Day 12)

Travel 2017: A Perfect Day In Avignon: Day Eleven

Traveling to new places can certainly be a mixed bag of experiences. I learned a long time ago not to let expectations get in the way of the experience itself. Even if you’ve spent a lot of time researching a destination in advance, there are always surprises along the way. Something might be closed. There may be a new exhibit or a festival that suddenly draws your attention. It could be overcrowded or timing may play an important role. Weather may also be an important factor. Whatever the situation when you arrive, flexibility is the key.

During our stop in Avignon, we had six optional excursions to choose from. Four were included- a walking tour of Avignon, a walking/tram tour (for gentle walkers), the Pont du Gard Aqueduct, or kayaking on the Gardon river. Two offerings, for an additional charge, included: A cooking class with a master chef at the Hotel la Mirande, or Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine tasting.

I was interested in seeing the Aqueduct but that meant sacrificing a visit to Avignon and the Palace of the Popes. So it was hard to choose. Michael and I ended up deciding we wanted the adventure of exploring Avignon on our own. I thought to ask our Cruise Manager Tania, if there was an admission ticket to the Palace of the Popes, which there was. She had a few tickets on hand, for those not taking the tour that wanted to explore on their own. Good thing I asked!

One other thing– in each city we docked, Uniworld had maps available to take with us, whether we went with a guided group or not. Taking one today was especially beneficial.

 

The Medieval rampart surrounding Avignon.

 

We crossed the main road that runs along the Rhone river and entered the fortified walls of Avignon.

Avignon dates back to at least the 6th century BC under Greek domination. Naples and France each had their own piece of early history here. By the 1300’s, it became the residence of the Popes– seven in all would make Avignon their home before the Papacy returned to Rome as the permanent residence. In addition, multiple plagues had a big impact on the city over the centuries.  While the current city population is about 90,000, only about 12,000 live with the ancient city center that is surrounded by looming medieval ramparts.

We walked through narrow streets, into the city, finding ourselves in the Place de l’Horloge. Not only is it considered the city center, it is one of the most perfect squares (I’ve seen so far) in Europe. It was still early in the day when we arrived. The hour was reflected by the activities of the merchants and restaurateurs busily preparing to open up shop. What made it so perfect was the blend of colorful shops, historic buildings and an old world atmosphere that hadn’t been completely modernized or commercialized. It still had so much charm.

 

The streets of Avignon.

 

A restaurant along the Place de l’Horloge in Avignon.

 

Hotel de Ville, (City Hall) Avignon.

 

The clock tower of the Hotel de Ville.

 

The theatre in Place de l’Horloge, Avignon.

 

Bank of France in Avignon.

 

Just a few blocks away was the Square Below the Palace of the Popes (Place du Palais). Not quite as charming as Place de l’Horloge but still historically beautiful and well preserved. There we found an artist was setting up to sell his work. Across the square, an accordionist played his squeezebox; busking at the steps of the Palace.

 

Vendors and artists setting up in front of The Old Mint (Hotel des Monnaies) across from the Palace of the Popes. Built in 1619, it has housed the Avignon School of Music since 1860.

 

One of the buskers near the Palace of the Popes.

 

Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral.

 

Palace of the Popes.  The Palais des Papes is one of the 10 most visited monuments in France. It is the largest Gothic palace in Europe. Built in the 14th century, it was first home to Popes, then Legates,  and finally Vice-Legates up until the French Revolution. Six papal conclaves were held here.

 

Palace of the Popes in Avignon, France.

 

The majority of the palace was constructed in less than 20 years.

Over 20 rooms can be explored during your visit.  Most of the ornate embellishments that were the finishing touches of later Popes, are now gone. One of the most interesting areas of the palace are the Popes’ private chambers– with original frescoes painted by the Italian artist Matteo Giovannetti. (No photography allowed.)

The palace was first opened to the public in the early 1900s. Today, exhibitions and performances are held here year-round. It is interesting that the palace has not been turned into a museum house in the way that many historic places have been. Here, the focus is on the magnificence of the building and architecture itself.

 

Sunlight bursting through a door of the medieval Palace of the Popes.

 

Incredible detailed art on the arched ceilings, entering the Palace.

 

Silhouettes of an art exhibition, inside the courtyard of the Palace of the Popes.

 

Interior courtyard view of the Palace of the Popes.

 

Sacristie Nord in the Palace of the Popes.

 

The Grand Chapelle.

 

The incredible brickwork in the Grand Chapelle of the Palace of the Popes.

 

Looking out of ornate Gothic windows of the Palais des Papes.

 

Walking the rooftop terraces of the Palace.

 

The Spires of the Palace of the Popes from the roof.

 

Looking down on the Honor Courtyard, used today for performances and home of the Avignon Theater Festival.

 

Avignon from the roof of the Palace of the Popes.

 

The gilded statue of the Virgin Mary tops the Avignon Cathedral, also known as Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral.

 

 

Looking out towards Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral (from the Palace) containing the mausoleum of Pope John XXII.

 

The bell tower above the Palace of the Popes.

 

One of the elaborate entrances to the Palace.

 

Exterior of the Palace of the Popes.

 

From the Palace, we wandered through the streets of Avignon, passing many shops and small theatres on our way to the Rocher des Doms Garden overlook. We strayed from the main path, discovering some unique passages and paused a moment to watch a sculptor at work.

 

Off the beaten path in Avignon.

 

A Sculptor at work.

 

Finding our own way to the top of the hill.

 

Many steps twist and turn to the top of the overlook.

 

After winding our way around, climbing many steps, we found ourselves at the top of the Rocher des Doms Garden Overlook. The gardens and panoramic views were nothing short of spectacular. It was just incredible up there. I couldn’t help but wonder if our cruise mates were going to miss out on all this beauty, or be rushed through, to stay on schedule. We had all the time in the world.

 

Fortress and Bishop’s Palace in Avignon.

 

Incredible view of the Rhone river.

 

Looking over Avignon from the hill.

 

I think we found the best view of the famous bridge- Pont d’Avignon or Pont Saint-Bénézet. Originally completed in 1185, it crossed the Rhone, only to be destroyed 40 years later by Louis VIII when taking over Avignon. It was rebuilt with 22 arches but river flooding repeatedly damaged the bridge. The surviving sections of the bridge are believed to have been constructed around 1345, with the Chapel of Saint Nicholas at the middle of the four remaining arches. The bridge is considered an important representation of the city, as well as the inspiration for the song, Sur le pont d’Avignon.

 

The famous Pont d’Avignon– Pont Saint Benezet Chapelle St Nicolas.

 

We took a break, grabbing a drink from a small cafe on the hill, and continued to enjoy our beautiful surroundings. We had perfect weather. It was hard to leave this place but we needed to start making our way back down the hill.

 

Ducks playfully enjoying the garden fountain and pond.

 

Along the garden path.

 

Beautiful Avignon.

 

We reached the bottom of the hill, once again passing the palace and finding ourselves back at Place de l’Horloge. It was a little busier now, the carousel was in motion and tourists were beginning to fill the streets and shops.

 

Back at Place de l’Horloge, Avignon.

 

The carousel, Place de l’Horloge, Avignon.

 

We’d only covered about a third of Avignon but felt like the experience had been totally fulfilling. It was still early afternoon and we could have spent more time but I was anxious to get back to the ship.

 

Lighting Paulo. I ended up volunteering (getting volunteered) to try and help improve the lighting for tonight’s concert. After the daily briefing in the Van Gogh lounge, while everyone else headed to the Cezanne Dining Room for dinner, I stayed and helped the staff transform the lounge into a makeshift theater.

On all the previous Playbill cruises the ships had actual theaters (or performance spaces) with a stage. Being a much small ship, specifically designed for river travel, the S.S. Catherine had only the large Van Gogh Lounge (with no stage) that could accommodate all the guests at one time.

I’m not sure I was able to improve the lighting that much– but at least music director, John McDaniel would be lit. (The night before, he was totally in the dark.) The ship staff seemed grateful for the assistance and asked if I’d hang around for sound check.

 

A Private Moment. There really wasn’t time to go join our group in the dining room– so I went to our regular spot, which coincidentally was just off the lounge– on the front-lower deck of the ship. I got out there just in time to watch as our ship passed through one of the river locks– the first one I got to observe from start to finish. It’s fascinating how it works, moving from different water levels– and the fact that these locks help prevent most of the flooding that could occur along the river is pretty incredible.

 

Going through one of the locks between Avignon and Viviers.

After the lock, we were back in open water. Mostly natural, undeveloped land drifted by– with the occasional building or the remains of some ancient building coming and going from view. The sun was still quite hot as it was slowly starting it’s late afternoon descent from the sky. It was peaceful, quiet, and really a beautiful moment. How lucky I was to be experiencing it!

Late afternoon passing hilltop ruins on the Rhone River.

 

Paulo Szot In Concert. What a voice! Strong, rich, resonant– a joy to listen to. Paulo treated us to a wide variety of songs that included selections from his Tony Award-winning performance in South Pacific to Sondheim. I think the audience favorite had to be his rendition of Stars from Les Miserables; performed in many different languages and ending in English.

 

Paulo Szot.

 

Paulo Szot is one of the most acclaimed and versatile baritones in the world, having garnered international acclaim as both an opera singer and actor. Born in Sao Paulo to Polish immigrants, Szot has appeared in leading roles with many major opera companies throughout the world including the Metropolitan Opera, Paris Opera, La Scala, Dutch National Opera, San Francisco Opera, Rome Opera and Opera Australia. In 2008, he won the Tony Award for Best Actor in a Musical for his portrayal of Emile De Becque in the Broadway revival of South Pacific at Lincoln Center Theater, for which he also won the Drama Desk, Outer Critic’s Circle and Theater World Awards. Szot was the first Brazilian actor to receive such honors. In the recent 2016-2017 season, Szot appeared as Don Alfonso in a new production of Cosi fan tutte at Opera National de Paris and presneted a solo recital at Teatro Royal de Madrid as a salute to Frank Sinatra’s recordings of Antonio Jobim’s bossa novas. He also originated the roles of Alexander Hamilton, Bill Clinton and Dick Cheney in the world premiere of Mohammed Fairouz’s The New Prince at the Dutch National Opera. — Playbill

 

Paulo Szot, Broadway on the Rhone, May 2017.

 

Paulo Szot performing for the Playbill audience.

 

The wonderful Paulo Szot in Concert.

 

Music Director John McDaniel accompanying Paulo Szot in Concert.

 

Going Through the Locks. After the concert, the gang gathered on the deck and we were treated to quite a show. We went through probably the most unique of the locks on our trip– passing under, and then watching the massive gate drop behind us closing our ship in the lock, creating what felt like a medieval dungeon. It was dark and eerie, the ship’s floodlights reflecting off the dark, glistening walls as the water level changed before releasing us back out into the river.

 

Entering one of the more incredible locks we’d pass through on the Rhone river.

 

The S.S. Catherine, Inside the Lock.

 

Leaving the Lock on the Rhone River.

 

It had been quite a day! I always tell people that doing the Playbill cruises is like getting two vacations in one. You enjoy traveling to, and exploring, fascinating destinations– and then you have the wonderful Broadway concert experience on board. Today was the perfect example of the best of both worlds.

 

Travel Date: May 23, 2017, Tuesday (Day 11)

Travel 2017: Impressions From a Day in Van Gogh’s Arles: Day Ten

Tarascon. Today was our first full day of the Broadway On the Rhone (BOTR) river cruise. The S.S. Catherine had docked last night at Tarascon, Halte Fluviale (river stop).  We had sailed south on the Rhone to get here, while the rest of the cruise will be traveling north, up the river, ending in Lyon.

Today, we had the choice of two excursions: a walking touring of the beautiful town of Tarascon or taking a coach bus to the city of Arles, for a walking tour there. Both excursions were included in the cost of the cruise. Time not allowing us to do both, we chose to visit Arles. (There was a third option scheduled for the afternoon– visiting an olive farm– for an additional fee if you chose to participate.)

Fortunately, we were able to see parts of Tarascon on our way to Arles. The most prominent structure being the Chateau de Roi René. The castle was built in the 1400s and later served as a prison up through the late 1920s.

 

Chateau de Roi René in Tarascon.

 

As with so many small towns, Tarascon appeared to be a lovely place to wander and enjoy the mix of modern and historic preservations. The commune of Tarascon-sur-Rhône has a current population of only 13,500 residents.

Arles. We arrived in Arles, perhaps most famous as the temporary home of Vincent Van Gogh.   Just outside the remains of the fortress walls, is the location of where the famous “yellow house” where Van Gogh lived between 1888 and 1890, once stood. Small modern shops now occupy the site.

We proceeded to enter the center of the ancient town of Arles. The commune (city) is the largest (land area) in France! It only has a population of 52,000 but its recognized land covers 293 square miles. The city center is much smaller and quite easy to navigate.

 

The entrance to the ancient fortified city of Arles.

 

Along the street, just inside the city of Arles.

 

A restaurant in Arles opening for business.

 

Preparing for the day.

 

In Arles. I’m obsessed with the color, design and textures of historic architecture.

 

The Roman Arles Amphitheatre, completed around 90 AD, was used for chariot races and hand to hand combat. As many as 20,000 spectators would witness these events at any given time. Today the amphitheatre is used for bullfighting, concerts and other performances.

 

The two-tier Roman Arles Amphitheatre built around 90 AD.

 

Looking up at the remaining exterior of the Arles Amphitheatre.

 

The area of town around the amphitheatre is built up with tightly nestled homes and businesses dating back many centuries. This was another spot that Van Gogh frequented, people-watching and gathering inspiration.

 

A facade Van Gogh would have loved.

 

In very close proximity was the Theatre of Arles. Completed around 12 BC., it is one of the oldest Roman stone theatres. Back in its day, this theatre featured grand presentations of tragedies and comedies featuring actors, unlike the amphiththeatre. It is still used as a concert and performance venue today.

 

Le Théâtre Romain d’Arles.

 

Roaming through the quiet streets of Arles.

 

The French flag with the dome of Hotel De Ville (town hall) in the background.

 

Lots of heavenly-scented Jasmine climb the buildings in Arles.

 

We spent some time at Place de la Republique which features an Obelisk and the town hall, Hotel De Ville. There was a large gathering for a funeral outside the Church of St. Trophime so we were unable to go in it. The Romanesque Catholic church was built between the 12th and 15th centuries.

The Obélisque d’Arles was erected by Roman Emperor Constantine II in the 4th century. It eventually fell and broke into two pieces, was lost for years, rediscovered, and re-erected in 1676 and placed here on a pedestal. Place de la Republique is a beautiful square in the heart of Arles.

 

The obelisk and Hotel De Ville in the Place de la République.

 

Two warriors keeping guard of the Obelisk in the Place de la République in Arles.

Vincent Van Gogh in Arles. At the age of 35, Van Gogh left Paris and spent a good part of 1888 and 1889 in Arles. Here, he further developed his signature style, sketching and painting an astounding 300 pieces of art. Van Gogh was so taken by the city, he had hoped to build an artist colony in Arles. Unfortunately, he suffered from severe depression- leading to repeated hospitalizations and the infamous incident when he cut off his left ear– sending it to a prostitute. Leaving Arles, he committed himself to a hospital in St. Remy and then Auvers-sur-Oise.  In May 1890, he shot himself in the chest, dying two days later from his wounds. Ironically, none of his original work remain in Arles but can be viewed in major museums all over the world.

 

La Jardin De La Maison De Sante A Arles by Vincent Van Gogh (1889).

Our next stop was L ‘Espace Van Gogh, formerly, the Hospital at Arles. Van Gogh checked himself in to the hospital’s psychiatric ward, voluntarily in 1889.

While staying at the hospital, Van Gogh painted, Garden of the Hospital in Arles or, La Jardin De La Maison De Sante A Arles (1889).

 

Today, La Jardin De La Maison De Sante A Arles the inspiration for one of Vincent Van Gogh’s famous works.

 

Vincent Van Gogh’s Cafe Terrace at Night (1888).

We soon reached the Van Gogh Café famous for the painting, Café Terrace at Night on the Place du Forum. Of all the spots, this is probably the most recognizable (today) of Van Gogh’s work here in Arles.

The plaza, or square, is probably one of the more charming locations in Arles. Most frequented by tourists, the plaza retains its unique, small town vibe– in spite of the outside attraction. Or in other words, it doesn’t feel touristy.

 

The inspiration for Van Gogh’s Le Cafe La Soir, or Cafe Terrace at Night.

 

A beautiful restaurant on the Place du Forum.

 

Street cuisine (cooking outside) in Arles, just off the Place du Forum.

 

We were really enjoying the relaxing walk through the winding streets and getting a memorable, yet brief glimpse of Arles.

On our way back to our starting point, we stopped at the ruins of the Baths of Constantine (4th century).

 

Baths of Constantine, Arles, France.

 

Starry Night (1888) Vincent Van Gogh.

We arrived back at the Rhone river, to see the final Van Gogh inspiration spot we’d visit– that of La Nuit Etoilée Sur Le Rhône (1888), his first Starry Night. He painted another, more famous Starry Night, a year later. The view we had today, especially with the overcast sky, was not exceptional- just historic in art context. It’s interesting to see and wonder how in Van Gogh’s head, his vision translated from life to canvas.

 

The location on the Rhone, inspiring, Starry Night (1888) by Vincent Van Gogh.

 

From there, we left to go back to our ship and had a relaxing afternoon until it was time to get ready for dinner.

Prior to dinner, we met in the lounge for our daily briefing of news and the breakdown of following day’s excursion options– all provided by our Cruise Manager, Tania– full of humor and enthusiasm.

Then we headed directly to dinner to save seats. With a party of eight, we had to get to the dining room promptly at 7 pm since most of the seating was for six or less.

At dinner, we enjoyed stellar conversation, many laughs, a great meal and wonderful service from the staff.

Broadway On the Rhone- First Concert: Liz Callaway.

Liz Callaway is a Tony nominee and Emmy Award-winning actress, singer and recording artist. She made her Broadway debut in Stephen Sondheim’s Merrily We Roll Along, received a Tony Award nomination for her performance in Baby, and for five years, won acclaim as Grizabella in Cats. She has also starred in the original casts of Miss Saigon, The Three Musketeers, and The Look of Love.

 

Liz Callaway performing for Playbill Travel’s Broadway On the Rhone.

 

Once again, Liz gave Playbill travelers a wonderful, heartfelt concert. We enjoyed her performance as much this time, as we did on the Southeast Asia cruise. For me, highlights included Chanson and Meadowlark from The Baker’s Wife.

For those that might be wondering– since there are performers that have entertained on multiple cruises–Liz gave a fresh new concert, with the (expected) exception of her signature song from the musical Baby, The Story Goes On. It was a beautiful first concert to start off this Playbill cruise.

 

Liz Callaway.

 

Rebecca Luker joins Liz Callaway for a number during the concert.

 

Travel Date: May 22, 2017 (Day 10)

Travel 2017: No Sunday in the Park But the Stars Are Out: Day Nine

Transport to train station: 8 AM. What?!? No! This can’t be! But alas, that was indeed the schedule.

No Sunday in the Park with George…. and Jeff and Michael and Mary.

As I’d posted before our trip, I had hoped we’d be able to spend a little of our Sunday morning on the l’Île de la Grande Jatte– where Georges Seurat spent much time sketching and painting. I guess it was just an art/theatre geek thing. I’d hoped we wouldn’t have been leaving Paris before noon– 10 am at the very earliest. I guess that moment just wasn’t meant to be. Maybe next trip. (You hear that George and Mary?)

The night before, Michael and I somehow managed to pack our large and carry on suitcases inside each other so they would go on the truck ahead of us to the ship. (They told us we could send one bag ahead.) This way we didn’t have to lug a big suitcase on the train.

Everything actually worked out perfectly. We got up, had breakfast, and then it was time to head to the train station. No waiting around, killing time.

We arrived at the Paris station,  Gare de Lyon, with plenty of time to look around the beautiful, building before boarding the high speed TGV train to Avignon.

 

Inside the Paris Gare de Lyon Train Station.

 

Gare de Lyon.

 

It was hard to believe that after the whirlwind adventure we’d had so far– the ‘main event‘ was still ahead! Broadway On the Rhone! This would be our fourth cruise with Playbill Travel but our first-ever river cruise.

 

Our cruise begins!

 

We arrived in the south of France (Avignon) in just under three hours. Even though there wasn’t a lot of unique scenery to speak of, it was a relaxed, comfortable trip.

 

Our ship- Uniworld’s S.S. Catherine docked in Avignon.

 

We were warmly greeted and welcomed aboard the S.S. Catherine by the crew and encouraged to visit the buffet. The rooms wouldn’t be ready for a couple hours so we ate and explored. We saw a number of people had arrived that hadn’t gone to Paris first– so we said our hellos and ended up camping out on the top deck.

It was empty up there– a beautiful sunny day and little hot. We guessed most were choosing to stay inside where it was cooler.

After a bit, we saw people coming up the stairs. It was none other than Grammy and Emmy Award winner,  John McDaniel and his niece! We made introductions, had a nice conversation and then they were off to explore around the ship some more.

A crew member came around and told us we could check in and go to our rooms but our bags might not be there until later. When they arrived, we had enough time to unpack and take a short nap before the security/excursion briefing in the lounge.

The ship set sail, unceremoniously, while the meeting was going on. That was followed by cocktails on the upper deck and the introduction of our cruise’s entertainment: Liz Callaway, Paulo Szot, James Barbour, and Rebecca Luker; with music director, John McDaniel.

 

 

Our ship, the S.S. Catherine, is a small ship, specifically suited for river cruises. It only accommodates 159 guests and 57 staff in 6 suites and 74 staterooms. It has to be short enough to fit under the many low bridges. We would also be passing through 17 locks on the Rhone river from Avignon to Lyon.

The ship has most of the amenities of a larger ship, just scaled down. There’s one large dining room (most ships have three or more) and a big lounge that can hold everyone at one time. There’s also a smaller bar with a ‘pool’ that would be better described as a large hot tub. The only things missing are a gift shop and casino.

One of the first things I noticed, after the Murano chandelier in the lobby, was the beautiful modern art lining all the hallways. Tasteful and appropriate.

 

The Lobby/Reception area of the S.S. Catherine.

 

Sailing on the Rhone River.

 

At 7 pm we met our friends for an enjoyable dinner and then retired early. I always feel exhausted on travel days, I’m not sure why. Looking forward to a new adventure on the day ahead!

 

Travel Date:  May 21, 2017 Sunday (Day 9)

Travel 2017: A Rainy Day in London Town Still Sizzles: Day Five

Our last full day in London was to be a very wet one, start to finish. We’d actually been pretty lucky with the weather– mostly sunny days and temperatures slightly above the norm for this time of year. There was no way we were going to let a little rain dampen our spirits. We grabbed an umbrella and headed out for another busy day.

At The Monument.

The Monument to the Great Fire of London is the world’s tallest isolated stone column. It is most commonly referred to as The Monument. Designed by Sir Christopher Wren, it stands to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666. It’s hard to get a perspective of its size in a picture– so consider that there are 311 steps that go up to a viewing platform at the top.

 

The Monument to the Great Fire of London.

 

One of the interesting things we found online before our trip was the Sky Garden in the Walkie Talkie building, 20 Fenchurch Street.

Looking up from the base of 20 Fenchurch Street, nicknamed the Walkie Talkie building.

The building itself, nicknamed for its unusual shape, is considered by many as “the worst building” in the U.K. Completed in 2014, it has 34 floors, the top three made up of the Sky Garden, bars and restaurants.

The Sky Garden is London’s highest public garden and it offers an uninterrupted, 360 degree view of London. It’s free to visit but tickets are required. It’s highly recommended you reserve them in advance because it is frequently filled.

 

The Sky Garden has tiered levels for enjoying the spectacular 360 degree views.

 

Looking out over the Sky Garden.

 

In spite of the cloudy skies and rain-spattered windows, the views were spectacular. There is an open air observation deck on one side, with rest of the views through large panes of glass.

 

London from the Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch Street.

 

The Gherkin (right) from the Sky Garden.

 

The River Thames and the 95-story Shard Building on the right.

 

Looking out at the Tower of London and the Tower Bridge.

 

It started raining again so we took the Tube as close as we could, to our matinee performance of Les Miserables. Why Les Miz? Yes, we’ve seen many professional productions– in NYC and on tour. Maybe even a dozen. BUT we’d never seen it in London– where it all began. AND it’s Michael’s favorite musical.

 

Les Miserables at the Queen’s Theatre.

 

Les Miserables has been running continuously in London for nearly 32 years!  One fact you may not know, is that the events in the show, occur around the June Rebellion (or The Paris Uprising of 1832) NOT the French Revolution (1789-1799) as many people believe.

At intermission, we both commented that we thought is was way to fast! Now, when Michael agrees that something is too fast– it’s too fast. When we see shows, he’s always saying they could pick up the tempo. Sure, a performance differs from one to the next– but this, apparently, wasn’t a fluke. A friend who saw it two years ago asked if they were still speeding though it.

I found the differences in staging from the original Broadway production interesting. (I’m assuming this is still the original staging.) Some things worked better than others and I could also see why some were changed. All in all, in spite of the pace, we still enjoyed it.

 

Inside the Queen’s Theatre before the performance of Les Miserables.

 

It was pouring rain after the show. We headed over to the Savoy Theatre and picked up our tickets, hoping to find a place for dinner nearby. While we were there, we went in the Savoy (Hotel) to check out the lobby.

 

In the lobby of the Savoy, looking in to the dining room.

 

We found a place across the street for dinner– appropriately called Eat. We did.

And, yes, still raining.

Our last show this visit– and another one of the reasons we came to London: the musical Dreamgirls.

 

Last show this trip: Dreamgirls!

 

A little backstory is necessary. We saw Amber Riley (Glee) was starring in the London production and really wanted to see it. I went to order tickets, front and center, and I had the option of getting the same seats with something called ‘blue box’ for the same price. This said it included a drink and snack. Okay… same price… why not? The tickets were about 80 pounds or $102 USD. At New York ticket prices, it would have been a minimum of $149– probably over $200 because these would be considered ‘premium seats’ — without a ‘blue box’.

I purchase the tickets. Done. Then get a message (after they were paid for, no refunds) that Amber Riley doesn’t perform all the Wednesday night shows! Not happy. Then the show opened in London, won a number of Oliver Awards, including Best Actress (Riley) — so we just kept our fingers crossed. Maybe we’d get lucky.

We get back to the theatre for the show… soaking wet from the rain and they held us at the door. No, clue what was going on. Then the usher tells us we’ve been upgraded to ‘red box’. Huh? We waited until they escorted us to a private lounge where we were given drinks and snacks until we would be escorted to our seats just before the lights went down.

 

Phone pic inside the Ambassador Lounge.

 

At the busiest point, there were only eleven people in the lounge and we had two servers. They also held our wet things in a private coat check until after the show.

So why the VIP treatment? No clue! We just kept our fingers crossed that the good luck would continue and Amber Riley would walk out on that stage. Our hostess told us they’d meet us at the interval and bring us back to the Ambassador Lounge for drinks– this was just way too cool.

We took our seats– and I think we both held our breath until Effie walked out on that stage. Exhale. Amber Riley was performing!

All I can say is WOW! Everything about the show was perfect. It was beautiful to look at, full of power and emotion– and every single cast member was amazing. Problems we’ve seen in past productions with pace and flow were nonexistent. Riley stopped the show with And I’m Telling You I’m Not Going and Listen (added to this production from the movie) with her costar during the later.

It was magic.

This Dreamgirls will definitely never leave me.

Sometimes the stars align and everything is right.

Tonight was simply beyond wonderful.

 

Travel Date: May 17, 2017  (Day Five) Wednesday

Travel 2017: A Day on the Thames-Nature, Art and Angels : Day Four

We started the day at the Tate Modern. This was the one day we’d pretty much scheduled out ahead of time, start to finish, knowing that later, we’d be spending eight and a half hours at the National Theatre. We chose to visit the Tate Modern this morning because of its close proximity to the theatre and we hadn’t explored the South Bank.

Looking up at the former Bankside Power Station, now the home of the Tate Modern.

 

The Tate Modern hosts a large collection of international modern and contemporary art from 1900 to the present. I didn’t know until after our visit that the building itself was the former Bankside Power Station. This explains its unusual, cavernous design.

It was built by the architect, Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, coincidentally, the grandson of  architect, Sir George Gilbert Scott, who built the hotel we were staying in– St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel. Sir Giles Gilbert Scott also designed the Waterloo bridge and the famous red telephone boxes.

 

Inside the cavernous entrance of the Tate Modern, the former Bankside Power Station.

 

The wide variety of artistic styles here, span from late Impressionism to modern sculpture and art in advertising. Overall, I found the museum quite stimulating and well conceived.  Even though I find a lot of modern art not to my taste, there were many works and artists represented here for whom I have a great fondness.

 

Lightning with Stag in its Glare by Joseph Beuys.

 

Weeping Woman (1937) by Pablo Picasso.

 

Metamorphosis of Narcissus (1937) by Salvador Dali.

 

One of the gallery spaces inside the Tate Modern.

 

We left the museum with plenty of time for an enjoyable walk along the Thames. There are many restaurants and shops along the South Bank and quiet little parks as well. This area of the embankment is known as The Queen’s Walk.

 

A beautiful view of London from the South Bank of the Thames.

 

The rest of the day was spent at National Theatre’s production of the Pulitzer Prize winning play, Angels In America. The opportunity to see it was the catalyst that brought us to London (prior to our cruise) instead of NYC.

 

The National Theatre complex.

 

Angels In America: A Gay Fantasia on National Theme is Tony Kushner’s 1993 play in two parts, entitled Millennium Approaches and Perestroika. It’s an epic journey that explores AIDS and Homosexuality in 1980’s America.

 

Angels In America.

 

The National Theatre’s production features impressive performances by Andrew Garfield, Russell Tovey and Nathan Lane, among many others.

We were lucky enough to purchase excellent seats, in a combined event ticket, that included both parts presented in one day. The entire run of the production quickly sold out after going on sale.

Each part also had two intermissions. We had about a two hour break between parts one and part two for dinner, that we spent at a nice restaurant between the theatre and the London Eye. The actual run time, including intermissions (but not the dinner break), was just over eight and a half hours.

The production is incredible. The time flew by. Honestly, the experience is nearly impossible to describe. The revealing (or realization) of the Angel at the end of the first part was pretty ingenious — as frightening as it was beautiful.

I have to say that I cannot imagine seeing Millennium Approaches and Perestroika separately. They are so closely woven and dependent on each other in the scope of the entire piece. This is a historic work– it not only captures a  dark moment in history– it is ground-breaking in its structure and form.

When we left the theatre, we entered the misty night air and walked across the Waterloo Bridge to the Tube. We couldn’t help stopping on the bridge and enjoy the wonderful night view of London.

 

London at night from the Waterloo Bridge.

 

Travel Date: May 16, 2017 (Day Four)

Travel 2017: London Museums and an American Classic: Day Three

It’s our third day in London and Michael decided he wanted to spend the morning relaxing at St. Pancras. I decided to head over to the British Museum by myself. Michael’s not a huge fan of museums so I was on my own.

 

The British Museum.

 

Masterpiece Clock, around 1650, at the British Museum.

British Museum. I arrived at the museum shortly after it opened and the line to get in moved quickly.

Like all the national museums in the U.K., there is no admission fee to get in. Just one of the things I love about London.

There are many museums in this city– most with a particular focus. The British Museum is dedicated to human history, arts and culture or could otherwise be described as hosting antiques, artifacts and relics from different civilizations throughout history.

In grading a museum, I usually prefer a number of things: a balance of what is displayed, the layout of the exhibition space, the way a story is being told, and the ambience of the building itself.

Unfortunately, this was not my type of museum. The British Museum has more than 8 million pieces in its collection and tries to display too many of them at one time.

The galleries are overcrowded with relics in what feels like haphazardly-placed displays, causing each room to be a congested maze. Add the large number of visitors to that and it becomes too claustrophobic.

Compound that– though galleries are loosely sectioned by civilization,  types of work, etc. — there is no easy-to-follow story or way to simply navigate through the museum’s collection.

 

A child’s sarcophagus, probably from Rome, early 200 AD.

 

I made my way through most of the exhibitions but did so pretty quickly– searching for pieces that might catch my eye. Sadly, I found very little interest here and was more anxious to get out of the crowded spaces so I could breathe again.

I can’t help but make the comparison to searching for a special find at an overcrowded flea market. Michael made the right decision to pass on the opportunity. He would have hated this experience.

In the afternoon, we found ourselves exploring the area of Victoria Embankment. We were on a quest to acquaint ourselves with new areas of London we hadn’t yet explored. It was an enjoyable walk that led us over to Somerset House, one of the places we didn’t have a chance to visit before.

 

Victoria Embankment.

 

Courtauld Gallery. Friends of ours had recommended the Courtauld Gallery to us which is located at Somerset House on the Strand. It is a small gallery with an extraordinary collection of Impressionist work.

The Courtauld Gallery.

I absolutely loved it. The collections, the ambience and the display were all handled to perfection.

I think we spent more time here than I did at the mammoth British Museum this morning. Works by van Gogh, Seurat, Monet and Degas were all beautifully displayed.

My big surprise was finding Georges Seurat’s painting, Young Woman Powdering Herself (1888-1890). I have a reproduction at home and have always loved this piece.

 

Viewing Georges Seurat’s Young Woman Powdering Herself.

 

If we’d have had more time, I could have easily spent several more hours here. I can’t fully explain it. I found the art here thrilling to behold. I definitely hope to return here again.

 

Inside the beautifully displayed Courtauld Gallery.

 

Dancer Ready to Dance, Right Foot Forward by Edgar Degas.

 

Vincent van Gogh’s Self-Portrait With A Bandaged Ear, 1889.

 

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolfe? One of our most anticipated performances was tonight’s production of Edward Albee’s Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolfe? at the Harold Pinter Theatre.

 

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

 

We couldn’t have been more pleased. Why is it that you have to travel to London to see a truly great performance of an American classic?

It starred Olivier and Bafta award-winning actress Imelda Staunton (Gypsy, Sweeney Todd, Edward Albee’s A Delicate Balance); Olivier award-winner Conleth Hill (Game Of Thrones, Stones In His Pockets, The Producers); Olivier award-winner Luke Treadaway (The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time, Fortitude, The Hollow Crown) and Imogen Poots, in her West End debut (A Long Way Down, Jane Eyre and Me And Orson Wells).

Everything about this production is perfect! Director James Macdonald’s vision brings to life a fresh, contemporary production that is the best I’ve ever seen. He has guided the actors into new territory with their original, rich, deeply-layered performances– paying perhaps the greatest tribute to Albee’s dark and disturbing masterpiece.

 

What a day!

 

Travel Date: May 15, 2017 (Day Three)

 

Travel 2017: Gardens, Rock and Robbery: Day Two

The Guard House at Kensington Palace Gardens.

After a good night’s sleep and no noticeable jet lag, we had a quiet breakfast, then headed out for the day.

Our morning target was Kensington Palace and gardens. We already knew tickets for the palace, which included a special new exhibition, had been sold out for months.

Getting off the Tube we came upon Kensington Palace Gardens, which has been called “the most exclusive address in London” and is also known as “Billionaires Row”.  There’s a guard house where you enter the street (and no photography allowed) which is lined with palatial mansions– many are the homes of foreign diplomats, or serve as foreign embassies. Prior to being renamed around 1870, the street was known as The Queen’s Road. It was the MI19 center, The London Cage, during World War II and the Cold War.

The beautiful tree-lined street was nearly silent under it’s shaded canopy.

Looking through the ornate gates at Kensington Palace.

This led us to the gardens of Kensington Palace. Not exactly sure where we were headed, we walked towards the palace, then around it, until we found the specific garden we were looking for.

I’d like to note that even if you aren’t touring it, you can still get surprisingly close to the palace, which also hosts a cafe that is open to the public. Last trip, we only saw Kensington from across the green of Hyde Park.

We passed the visitor’s entrance and came upon a maze-like path that wound us around to the Sunken Garden.

Our particular interest was that the garden has been transformed into the White Garden, in commemoration of the 20th anniversary of Princess Diana’s death. This was one of Diana’s favorite spots and it has been filled with many of her favorite flowers to mark the occasion.

The White Garden will be open to the public through the summer of 2017.

 

Remembering Princess Diana- The White Garden.

 

Beautiful arched trellises surround the Kensington Palace Sunken Garden, transformed into the White Garden to honor Princess Diana, 2017.

 

The Kensington Palace Sunken Garden has been transformed into the White Garden.

 

At the White Garden.

 

The Kensington Gardens, covering 242 acres are adjacent to Hyde Park, though crossing over from one to the other goes unnoticed.

Princess Diana Memorial Walk.

We’d visited the other formal gardens on the last visit, so this time we set out in a new direction, down The Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Walk.

As quiet and peaceful as it was, everywhere you looked you’d see joggers, sunbathers, people enjoying family picnics and walking their dogs.

We reached the Long River and in addition to the beautiful swans, we had a great view of artist Henry Moore’s The Arch positioned on the north bank of the river.

Henry Moore’s ‘The Arch’.

 

We were soon following the Serpentine River, finding many people out boating and even swimming in a public recreation area.

Along the Serpentine River in Hyde Park.

 

Beautiful plantings throughout Hyde Park.

We had successfully walked the entire length of Hyde Park, reaching the Marble Arch. John Nash, designed the arch as the official state entrance to Buckingham Palace in 1827. The design was partially based on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. After years of problems preventing it’s completion, it was finished quickly in time for Queen Victoria’s accession to the throne in 1937. But as Queen Victoria’s court and family quickly grew, it became necessary to build on to the palace, forcing the removal of the arch. It was moved to it’s current location at Cumberland Gate, the northeast corner of Hyde Park, completed in 1851.

 

The Marble Arch, originally the state entrance of Buckingham palace, moved in 1851.

If all we’d seen wasn’t enough, our day was just beginning, so to speak. It was just early afternoon and we still had two theatrical performances to attend.

School of Rock is a feel-good show for the entire family. A musical stage adaptation of the 2003 film, that starred Jack Black– it stays true to its source. (Michael and I actually just saw the movie again, shortly before our trip.) The show relies heavily on character stereotypes but that works well for this type of show.

This is an Andrew Lloyd Webber production and his theatrical roots have been based in shows with gimmicks.  School of Rock’s gimmick is that all the younger performers actually play their own instruments on stage– something the production doesn’t let you forget.

 

School of Rock, London.

 

We both really enjoyed it. It’s lively, uplifting– and just plain fun, with a positive message. It also made me ask the question again: Why are young British performers uniformly better than their American counterparts?

We had one of those frequent London come-and-go rains while we were in the matinee. The streets were wet and glistening as the sun quickly returned to brighten the afternoon. We headed over to Piccadilly Circus and picked up the tickets for our evening performance.

 

Piccadilly Circus after a short rain.

 

We decided not to eat until after the evening show and spent the little bit of time we had– people-watching and enjoying the street performers scattered around Piccadilly Circus. Michael became particularly captivated by one performer that required audience participation for his act. It was a pretty simple and clever concept– he stood frozen until someone dropped a coin or two in his box and then he would come to life, taking his benefactor and posing them in a variety of positions. He would then add himself to the ‘picture’ with some amusing results.

Here’s Michael becoming part of the act:

 

Michael gets into the act with a Piccadilly Circus performer.

 

The Comedy About A Bank Robbery. It’s hard for me to put into words how impressed I am by the creativity and ingenious work done by the Mischief Theatre Company. We saw and loved their production, The Play That Goes Wrong, last September and were excited to see what else they could do.

 

The Comedy About A Bank Robbery, London 2017.

 

Going in, I honestly didn’t think I could have been more impressed than I had been with their last one. Minutes after the lights dimmed, I was proven wrong. By the time we reached the interval (intermission), I had absolutely no idea how they were going to get back to the base premise of the show. Hysterically funny, brilliant and thoroughly entertaining!

If you love British farce, slapstick comedy and really creative word play. See this show!

 

Entering the Tube at Piccadilly Circus.

 

We’d walked over 8 miles today, enjoyed some of the best parks and shows London has to offer. We couldn’t have asked for a better day!

Travel Date:  May 14, 2017 Sunday (Day Two)