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Travel 2016: Day Four – A Royal Palace, New Friends and a Funny Girl

We started the day enjoying the ambience of our hotel and a hearty breakfast in the Chamber Club. Our last day in London. Our day was mostly planned out ahead of time so we weren’t rushed getting started.

Buckingham Palace.

Buckingham Palace.

Buckingham Palace. We purchased tickets to tour the State Rooms of Buckingham Palace with an add-on garden tour, way in advance of our trip. The ticket also included a large exhibition of the Queen’s clothing entitled, Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style From the Queen’s Wardrobe.

The State Rooms tour is only available during July-October. I was extremely glad we were going to get this opportunity.

The royal gate at Buckingham Palace.

The Royal Gate at Buckingham Palace.

 

A Palace Guard.

A Palace Guard.

 

Upon arrival, I got the bad news that no photography was allowed in the Palace. I always find this annoying, especially when you are being charged admission in the first place. You see people ‘sneaking pictures’ (which almost always turn out bad) that they will surely post on social media–so doesn’t that defeat the point? I behaved (inside at least) and left my camera in my bag while in the Palace. We were told we could take as many pictures as we wanted in the gardens afterwards.

The 19 State Rooms (public rooms) are each ornate and unique in their decor.  The Green Drawing Room and the Music Room were my favorites. What is really great about touring Buckingham Palace is that it is a living museum. It is actually lived in and used to receive guests. There are many breathtaking pieces in the Royal Collection. Also, the self-guided audio tour (with touch screen options) is one of the best I’ve seen.

The fashion exhibition was quite interesting as well. The exhibition is actually taking place in three locations. (Also at Windsor and Holyroodhouse.) The selected pieces of the Queen’s wardrobe are tied most directly to the location where they are displayed, 150 pieces in all. The only drawback was that the display blocked the grand view of the ballrooms where they are located.

 

The back, or garden side of Buckingham Palace.

The back, or garden side of Buckingham Palace.

 

We finished the tour and discovered we had an hour until the garden highlights tour started. This was frustrating because we could not leave the garden terrace and re-enter, meaning that we missed the changing of the guard in front of the Palace.

 

A view of the gardens from the terrace of Buckingham Palace.

A view of the gardens from the terrace of Buckingham Palace.

 

Part of the Queen's rose garden at Buckingham Palace.

Part of the Queen’s Rose Garden at Buckingham Palace.

Buckingham Palace Gardens. I had thought the garden tour was a great idea. It was an inexpensive add-on to our Buckingham Palace ticket and it’s the only way you get the opportunity to walk through the gardens. It ended up being a let down. First, no pictures. Second, there wasn’t much to see– mostly grass and trees.

The tour was basically a big loop around the perimeter of the gardens. There were a couple statues and the Queen’s rose garden– where I quickly snapped a picture unseen. We also passed the tennis courts but they were mostly blocked by trees and shrubs. I was surprised to find that there was no formal English garden on the property.

I think I figured out why they didn’t want photographs– evidence that the tour is a waste of time and money perhaps.

Leaving the Palace, we decided we were ready for a break. I’d wanted to visit the Queen’s Gallery and possibly the Royal Mews, but instead, we decided to spend a couple relaxing hours at the hotel. On the way back, we stopped at the Wellington Arch. It was an original entrance to Buckingham Palace, later representing Wellington’s victory over Napoleon.

 

The Wellington Arch.

The Wellington Arch.

 

New Friends. About a week before we left home, an old friend told me that her boss was going on our Broadway cruise and that he splits time between London and Chicago. We got contact information and planned to meet Anthony and Michael at The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych before our show.

Michael at one of the gates at Somerset House.

Michael at one of the gates of Somerset House.

Arriving early, we decided to walk the neighborhood. By chance, we found Somerset House— which was on my short list to visit.

We didn’t have the time to wander through but did have a few minutes to enjoy the large plaza and exterior architecture. There’s an art gallery, the Courtauld Gallery, I really want to visit in the future.

We were there a few days before the official start of London’s Fashion Week, so there was a lot of activity there.

 

The plaza at Somerset House.

The plaza at Somerset House.

Michael was waiting for us when we got back to the bar and Anthony joined us a few minutes later. Very nice guys. We had about an hour to get acquainted and talked a little about London, theatre, and what to expect on the upcoming cruise. (Their first one.) Then we parted ways– they were headed to see The Entertainer and we were on our way to our last show in London– and our most anticipated.

Funny Girl.

Funny Girl.

Funny Girl at the Savoy Theatre. Producers have been trying to bring a revival of Funny Girl to Broadway for years with no success. Could the success of this London production be just the push that it needs?

Any production can’t help but be compared to the original Barbra Streisand vehicle that made her a star. But is that fair? Is there another Streisand in the wings?

Sheridan Smith, who leads the cast of the London production, is clearly not Barbra Streisand. My argument is that she doesn’t need to be. She does need to embody Fanny Brice though– at this she misses the mark.  Smith is a good actress and a fair singer. Her portrayal here (as pointed out by Michael after the show) is more Melissa McCarthy than Fanny Brice. Her Brice character is empathetic and likable, don’t get me wrong. It’s just that I can think of a dozen actresses that could have acted and sung it better.

Another huge weakness in this production is the choice of  Darius Campbell as Nicky Arnstein. He’s too cute. Campbell is more reminiscent of Zac Efron in High School Musical than Arnstein–the gambling, debonair man of the world. It just doesn’t play believably.

My last gripe is the cast is too small. I’m sure it worked perfectly in the smaller Menier Chocolate Factory Theater (sold out run). I would have thought with the move to the Savoy, a few more actors could have been employed. This story revolves around the Ziegfeld Follies which evokes images of a large dancing chorus. Not here. Especially frustrating was when male ensemble members took on multiple roles within minutes of each other with no effort to disguise them. It was just confusing.

All that said, I did enjoy the production, in spite of its flaws. I just can’t imagine a Broadway transfer which means American audiences will have to continue to wait.

 

We made one final stop at Shake Shack on the way back to our hotel.

Tomorrow we’re off to Rome.

Travel 2016: Day Three – London Hop On Hop Off & a Blast From the Past

Ben & Me

Big Ben & Me

We started the day with breakfast in the Chamber Club at our hotel, fueling up for our biggest sightseeing day in London.

London Hop On Hop Off Bus. (Golden Tours) With limited time to take in this amazing city, we looked forward to the HOHO bus as a quick way to see the major sights. (One Day Unlimited use was included with our London Pass.) There are four routes (with a lot of overlap) and we chose The Grand Tour.

Crossing the Tower Bridge on a HOHO bus.

Crossing the Tower Bridge on a HOHO bus.

I’d rename this The Grand Bore. Besides the fact that traffic was at a standstill most of the time; many of the major sights of London were hidden from view or around the corner from the bus route. When we did reach a landmark that we could see…. the bus often rushed by so fast it was hard to even snap a picture. A huge disappointment!

We’ve really enjoyed the HOHO buses in Chicago, NYC and Singapore. Unless you are using the bus as your transportation to get off at each stop in London, I wouldn’t recommend it. Even then, you are bound by the bus schedule which could have you waiting and losing more valuable time. Unlike the other cities I mentioned, there wasn’t the same satisfactory ‘city tour’ overview (riding the whole route as a tour) we experienced in the past.  Plus, the tour narration (prerecorded, available in different languages) often didn’t sync up and restarted segments frequently.

There was one perk.  That was crossing the Tower Bridge on an open top bus. I found that pretty thrilling.

We were only about halfway through the route when we decided we were wasting valuable time, so we got off at Hyde Park and took to the street.

A distant view of Trafalgar Square.

A distant view of Trafalgar Square.

The Oyster Card. Before I launch into all the ground we covered today, I wanted to mention how easy the Oyster Card is to use. You scan/tap/swipe your card each time you start and stop travel whether it be the Tube (Underground), bus, train, etc. There are caps on the charges per day depending on the distance and zones you travel. So jumping on and off public transportation doesn’t have to be so expensive and is a fast, convenient way to get around the city.

We ordered our cards several months before our trip, already loaded with a balance so they were ready to go when we arrived. (Each person must have their own card.) You can reload them or cash them out at many stations but there is often a line. You need this card if you intend to use public transportation.

Hyde Park. One of the largest parks- 350 acres, Hyde Park is one of the Royal Parks. It’s often compared to Central Park in NYC, of course, they are quite different. One of the first spots we encountered was the Italian Gardens. A lovely, formal setting with fountains and statuary. We got a cup of coffee at the nearby pavilion and enjoyed this peaceful setting.

In the Italian Gardens of Hyde Park.

In the Italian Gardens of Hyde Park.

 

The Peter Pan Statute in Kensington Gardens.

The Peter Pan Statue in Kensington Gardens.

Moving on through the park to Kensington Gardens we happened to find the bronze Peter Pan statue, paying tribute to J.M. Barrie’s immortal character. Barrie lived close to these gardens and drew upon them for inspiration.

Kensington Palace was next on our walk, currently the home of many Royals (include both Prince and William and Prince Harry) in different wings of the estate. Portions of the Palace are currently closed for renovation. With limited time, we had not planned to tour the interior of the Palace.

 

Kensington Palace from the gardens.

Kensington Palace from the gardens.

We continued our walk toward Royal Albert Hall and the massive Albert Memorial commemorating the death of Prince Albert at the early age of 42. The memorial was designed by George Gilbert Scott, who was also the architect of our hotel.

 

Strolling through Kensington Gardens towards Royal Albert Hall.

Strolling through Kensington Gardens towards Royal Albert Hall.

 

The Albert Memorial at Royal Albert Hall.

The Albert Memorial at Royal Albert Hall.

 

Royal Albert Hall.

Royal Albert Hall.

 

The London neighborhood of Queen's Gate.

The London neighborhood of Queen’s Gate.

Queen’s Gate. At this point, we left Kensington Gardens and headed to Michael’s old stomping ground in the Queen’s Gate neighborhood. Michael lived in London for six months while completing a college internship with the BBC in 1986… 30 years ago.

Michael found his old apartment building in this quiet, classic neighborhood and enjoyed reminiscing over fond memories. Including something about a fire and breaking a window. (Oops!)

 

Michael on the porch of his old apartment building in Queen's Gate.

Michael on the porch of his old apartment building in Queen’s Gate.

 

Michael’s apartment was just around the corner from the British Natural History Museum, designed by Alfred Waterhouse in the Victorian Gothic Revival style of architecture. We didn’t have a lot of time but we did run in and check out the massive lobby and first floor exhibits. NOTE: Most of the major museums in London are free to the public (with a suggested donation encouraged.)

 

The grand entry of the Natural History Museum.

The grand entry of the Natural History Museum.

 

Trying to see as much as possible in a city with so much to offer is a daunting task. We knew we wouldn’t have a lot of time to spend in London’s many wonderful museums. I researched many of them ahead of time and chose a couple I hoped to visit.

The Victoria and Albert Museum featuring art and design.

The Victoria and Albert Museum featuring art and design.

The Victoria and Albert Museum. I’m glad we selected V & A, featuring a tremendous collection based on art and design. The museum provides excellent temporary exhibitions in addition to the permanent collection. One of the reasons we chose this over other museums was the smaller size (comparatively speaking) and the ambiance– based on the way the collections were displayed. When done well, the space itself becomes art, with each installation becoming part of of the whole.

Entering the museum, you are welcomed in the rotunda by a stunning, modern chandelier by Dale Chihuly. It was first installed in 1999 but expanded and enlarged by the artist in 2001 to its current size.

 

The Dale Chihuly chandelier in the rotunda.

The Dale Chihuly chandelier in the rotunda.

 

Beautifully displayed art in in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Beautifully displayed art in in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

 

After walking through much of the museum, we had Cream Tea ( tea and scones, complimentary with the London Pass) at the cafe across the courtyard from the main museum building. We could have easily spent several more hours here but we needed to move on. I’m sure we’ll return in the future.

Harrods.

Harrods.

Harrods. Since we were in the neighborhood, we made a brief stop at the world-famous department store, Harrods. Just walking through the jewelry and perfume sections was mind-boggling. Michael purchased his hard-to-find cologne and then we moved through the gourmet food section– quickly— exiting before our stomachs could start rumbling. (I’m glad we just had that scone!)

The clock of Elizabeth Tower that houses Big Ben.

The clock of Elizabeth Tower that houses Big Ben.

Palace of Westminster. We took the Tube to Westminster for a closer look at the Houses of Parliament and Elizabeth Tower, most commonly referred to as Big Ben.

Big Ben is actually the nickname of the bell in the tower. The official name of the tower was Clock Tower until it was renamed in 2012 in honor of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.

Westminster Abbey is just west of the Palace and is most notable as the place of coronations and the burial site of British monarchs.

 

The Palace of Westminster.

The Palace of Westminster.

 

Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey.

Thames River Cruise. (Included on the London Pass.) We boarded the boat at Westminster for what was to be a short ride– but not short on visual delight. From the Thames you get great views of London and many of its iconic buildings and attractions.

Cleopatra's Needle.

Cleopatra’s Needle.

Some of the most notable were: the Palace of Westminster, the London Eye, St. Paul’s Cathedral, London Bridge, the Shard, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, The Tower of London, Tower Bridge and Cleopatra’s Needle.

Cleopatra’s Needle is actually a twin to one that now resides in New York City. It was originally from the Egyptian city, Heliopolis, erected there in 1450 BC. It was moved to London in 1877.

The forecast had predicted rain and the sky looked pretty threatening. The good news was that the rain held off and the boat wasn’t too full. This allowed me to be able to take some decent photographs.

 

The London Eye from the Thames River.

The London Eye from the Thames River.

 

Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.

 

The Shard, also known as Shard London Bridge.

The Shard, also known as Shard London Bridge.

 

St. Paul's Cathedral towers above the London skyline along the Thames River.

St. Paul’s Cathedral is prominent in the London skyline along the Thames River.

 

The Tower Bridge.

The Tower Bridge.

 

The Tower of London.

The Tower of London.

 

The cruise ended at a dock where the path split to either the Tower of London or the Tower Bridge. Here, we had to make a choice. We only had time for one before they closed. As much as I really wanted to walk the glass walkway across the Tower Bridge– we chose the Tower of London.

Tower of London. (Free with the London Pass.) This massive castle and fortress was built by William the Conqueror beginning in 1066 and is an UNESCO World Heritage Centre. I most enjoyed walking the walls of the fortress looking over the property and out at the city around it. While we were there, it started pouring rain so we tried to avoid it as much as possible, which also meant skipping the line to see the Crown Jewels.

At one point we made the decision to climb over 300 stairs which in the end, seemingly led to no where. The only stairs down left us trapped in a crowded basement gift shop. We had to maneuver our way through, only to climb more stairs to get out.

I’m glad I visited the Tower of London but found many of the displays, artifacts and replicas a little too “Disney” and not my cup of tea.

Two of the six "Guardians of the Tower".

Two of the six “Guardians of the Tower”.

My favorite moment was finding two of the six ravens- the Guardians of the Tower— together. Legend says “If the ravens leave the tower, the Kingdom will fall…” There are actually seven ravens– the required six and one in case one goes missing. This legend and practice goes back to Charles II.

 

White Tower.

White Tower.

 

In our attempt to find the nearest Tube station we found Dickens Inn and decided to have dinner before our evening show. There were actually three different restaurant levels and we picked the one that doesn’t get busy until later in the evening– which might have been a good thing; but being early, service ended up being a little slow. Still, we were seated outside on a balcony with a cool breeze and a great view and that made up for the delay.

After dinner, even using the phone app, we got a little turned around in our directions. We got stuck in a maze of wooden walkways in this upscale little condo/boating enclave. Eventually we found our way out, made it to the Tube and back to Covent Garden for our fourth show in London.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time. I was pretty stoked to see this play. It had won a lot of praise and awards on both sides of the pond. Michael and I really enjoyed the first act but thought it lost it’s momentum in the second.

Maybe it was just an off night or a problem with the pacing, in either case, we were left a little disappointed.

Piccadilly Circus.

Piccadilly Circus.

Piccadilly Circus. What Times Square is to NYC, Piccadilly Circus is to London. It’s the center of activity in the West End. We walked through it after the show and took a few minutes to enjoy the vibe and to people watch. I see the comparison but think Piccadilly Circus is quite different and unique unto itself.

Piccadilly Circus.

Piccadilly Circus.

 

What a day! Looking back it’s hard to believe we saw so much in a single day. Only one day left in London. Tomorrow? Buckingham Palace and more.

 

Travel 2016: Day Two – King’s Cross to London’s Camden Market

Marylebone Grammar School.

Marylebone Grammar School.

After a good night’s sleep, we decided to head out on foot with only a tentative itinerary in mind. We had two shows booked and about six hours for exploring before then. We wanted to try and catch a boat ride at 10:30 am so we started walking that direction; up through King’s Cross and Marylebone to Little Venice.

Our friend George, highly recommended the phone app Maps.Me and so I’d downloaded the map of London as soon as we arrived. It’s a life-saver. What’s great is that once you have a map downloaded, you don’t need phone service to use it since it is GPS powered. We used it to get our bearings, locate points of interest and find the nearest Tube stops, never needing to worry when we’d wander off track.

We arrived in Little Venice early, giving us time to explore around the Regent’s Canal and grab breakfast at the Waterside Cafe. The restaurant itself, was a boat on the canal.

Jason’s Original Canal Boat Trip.

Jason’s Original Canal Boat Trip.

After breakfast, we boarded Jason’s Canal Boat Trip using our London Pass for a leisure ride around Regent’s Park (which covers 395 acres) to the Camden Locks. Jason’s has been operating since 1951 using a boat that’s over 100 years old.

The boat ride takes about 45 minutes. In addition to plenty of natural scenery, you glide past old and new estate homes, jogging paths and the London Zoo which flanks both sides of the canal.

Crossing under a bridge on the Rengent Canal.

Crossing under a bridge on the Regent’s Canal.

There are many bridges crossing the narrow canal allowing only enough width for one boat to pass through at a time.

At the end of the line, we reached the Camden Locks that are still manually operated to this day. The twin locks were originally constructed in 1818 and 1820. They now have Grade II historic designation and protections.

 

Camden Market

Welcome to Camden Market.

Welcome to Camden Market.

We got off the boat and found ourselves in a wonderland of food and unique treasures. The Camden Market started out open only on weekends but became so wildly popular it is now open daily.

Camden Market is an indoor and outdoor marketplace housed in multiple buildings and connecting streets. It’s a must-visit destination requiring anywhere from a couple hours to a full day of exploration.

Whether you are a treasure hunter, tourist or window shopper –there are multitudes of unexpected gems to taunt the senses. You can find food and trinkets here from all over the world.

 

Outdoor stalls at London's Camden Market.

Outdoor stalls at London’s Camden Market.

 

Several sellers exclusively merchandise to the Steampunk crowd.

Several sellers exclusively merchandise to the Steampunk crowd.

 

Exotic textiles at Camden Market.

Exotic textiles at Camden Market.

 

New and perfect-condition vintage clothing, steampunk accessories, old records, lamps, artwork, new and heirloom jewelry– it’s all here. If you can dream it- you’ll probably find it.

 

ZSL London Zoo

London has a truly first-class zoo. With a little time before our matinee, we used our London Pass  for fast-track entry and a rather rushed but enjoyable visit.

Opening in 1828, the London Zoo is the world’s largest scientific zoo. Today, the zoo features 756 species of animals.  It’s as much a park as it is a zoo. Large green spaces, well constructed exhibition grounds and something to appeal to all ages.

The carousel at the London Zoo.

The carousel at the London Zoo.

 

Lions at the London Zoo.

Lions at the London Zoo.

 

Show Time

Matilda the musical at the Cambridge Theatre in Covent Garden.

Matilda the Musical at Cambridge Theatre in Covent Garden.

We headed back to Covent Garden for the matinee performance of the musical, Matilda. Based on the popular children’s book, it made for a colorful and entertaining afternoon. I’m really glad we waited to see it here in London.

We had just enough time between shows to catch a nice dinner at Cote Bistro, in the theatre district.

Our evening performance was what might be considered standard British farce. The Play That Goes Wrong is funny, funny stuff. The plot centers on a community group putting on a play. As the title suggests, everything that can go wrong does so hysterically.

The Play That Goes Wrong at the Duchess Theatre.

The Play That Goes Wrong at the Duchess Theatre.

For my theatre friends– every single thing that could possibly happen, or you have ever experienced going wrong in a show, is included. I couldn’t think of one possible thing they left out.

After the show, it was back to Shake Shack at Covent Garden Market for a chocolate-peanut butter concrete, then headed underground for our Tube ride back to St. Pancras.

Travel 2016: Day One – London (and getting there)

London, Rome and Broadway On the High Seas 7- cruising southern Italy. This time around, we booked our own pre cruise adventure– with the exception of the hotel in Rome, booked through Playbill Travel. The first five days we were on our own to create our own experience.

It’s funny how months of preparation and research fly out the door in the few days prior to leaving on an extended vacation. This was our third trip overseas and you’d think I’d be used to that last-minute feeling of anxiety but it still takes me by surprise.  I suddenly found myself forgetting and rechecking everything I’d prepped for; probably asking Michael the same questions repeatedly, hopefully not driving him too insane. All the research on London and Rome was a jumbled mess in my head so I found myself going back over notes I’d made just to be sure I was ready.

The Flight

This was the first time traveling since we got the Global Entry clearance which includes TSA Pre-check. Of course, wouldn’t you know I was one of the people randomly selected to be scanned at security. Luck of the draw.

We flew to London Heathrow, direct flight, business class– on an evening flight out of Chicago O’Hare. The seating on this American Airlines flight was cozy yet smaller than past times we’ve flown business class. I watched two movies: All the Way and Trumbo, both starring Bryan Cranston, and enjoyed them both. Though I did manage to get a little sleep, I’ve found it’s really difficult for me to sleep more than a couple hours in the air. Michael, on the other hand, can sleep like a baby.

Overall, the flight was comfortable and it was on time. We arrived at Heathrow shortly after 9 am and breezed through to pick up our luggage.

 

The Tube is the best affordable way to get around London.

The Tube is the best affordable way to get around London.

Luggage and the Tube

We don’t travel as light as we probably should, so we found ourselves both lugging our two checked bags and two carry ons– that’s right… on the Tube. Aside from being a little awkward manipulating, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be. Except– that moment when we reached the first very steep escalator in one of the stations. I had a moment of acrophobia and kept it under control by staring at the back of Michael’s head.

The ride took us about 45 minutes to reach central London. Did I mention that I still didn’t know where we were going?

You Call THIS a Hostel?

Michael spent many hours researching London accommodations, months prior to the trip. To keep me guessing, he decided that our destination would be a surprise. It became a running joke that we were staying in a seedy hostel, complete with rats, paper-thin mattresses and a shared bath.

As we got closer to the trip, Michael would get “daily email updates” that he’d share with me each morning before he left for work. He’d inform me of pending updates such as ‘new pots to catch the water from the leaky roof’, warnings to ‘sleep with one eye open’, our daily ‘work assignment’– crazy stuff like that.

I can’t tell you how many times we’d finish watching TV or a movie and he’d say, “Did you see our hostel?” It was even one of the locations used in an episode of Downton Abbey that we re-watched before the trip. I was clueless.

The whole time, I knew I was in for something pretty incredible but Michael still managed to outdo himself. Our ‘hostel’ turned out to be the historic and opulent, St. Pancras Hotel.

St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel

We got off the Tube at King’s Cross, exited the station to the street and Michael just stopped in his tracks. “There’s your home for the next few days,” he said. I looked around and was a little confused. All I saw was this stunning, monster of a building– complete with clock tower, across the street. Overwhelmed would be an understatement. Welcome to St. Pancras!

 

My first view of the St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel.

My first view of the St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel.

 

Arriving early in the day, we didn’t expect our room to be ready. I soon found out Michael had scheduled a tour of the impressive building shortly after we checked our bags. (I’ll write a separate blog post just on the hotel– too much to include here and visually too impressive not to share.)

After touring this magnificent facility, we were able to check in to our room. And as if my head wasn’t already full enough, Michael had snagged of of the three designer suites in the hotel– the Sir George Gilbert Scott Suite. The suite was named after the building’s architect. You’ll see in my next post, images of this carefully restored slice of history.

Staying in the historic section of the St. Pancras, we also had exclusive use of the Chambers Club where we could have breakfast, afternoon tea or just relax.

After settling in, we had just enough time to head out, catch the Tube and do a little exploring before our first show.

My First Visit to the West End

The West End is often referred to as London’s equivalent of the Times Square Theatre District in New York City– only it isn’t. Yes, it is the hub of many entertainment venues in London but that is where the comparison stops.  I found the West End to be quite charming and warm. Though it was bustling with activity, it was still easy to take a relaxing stroll through the area. The streets are loaded with unique shops and quaint restaurants enticing theatregoers around every corner. There is completely different vibe here than the tourist-driven frenzy that exists in New York.

Charlie marquee

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory marquee at Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

Our first show– my first ever in London, was Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Perhaps a little ironic that it was written by the American musical theatre team of Marc Shaiman and Scott Wittman who also wrote the hit musical, Hairspray.

I loved it! As opposed to trying to compare it to other productions, I’ll say this: It was probably my most thoroughly-satisfying theatregoing experience in the past ten years. The physical production, the cast and the adaptation were all nothing short of magical. As one of my most favorite and most-memorable books growing up, this production of Charlie… made me feel like a kid again– rediscovering Roald Dahl’s delicious tale as if it were the first time. I can’t say enough good things about it.

From our seats, inside the Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

From our seats, inside the Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

By the way, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory is slated to make it’s Broadway debut next spring.

After the show, we took a leisure stroll through the West End with one destination in mind: Shake Shack.

The Shake Shack on 8th Ave has become one of our go-to places when we’re in NYC. With their popularity growing, others have started to sprout up in major cities around the world. (London already has three.) Michael and I both love their thick creamy concretes and their burgers and Chicago style hot dogs are good too. London’s Covent Garden location didn’t disappoint. It became our nightly stop before returning to the hotel every night after our shows.

Bellies full and exhausted, we returned to our hotel and actually slept through the whole night, peaceably.

 

On the street in the West End.

On the street in the West End.

 

The Nags Head in the West End.

The Nags Head in the West End.

2016 Vacation Preview: London, Rome & Broadway On the High Seas 7

Eight Months. That’s how long we’ve been researching and anticipating this trip. Including travel, we’re on a 16 day journey exploring parts of Western Europe. Unlike past travels abroad, nearly half of this trip we planned on our own, without any pre-planned itinerary.

I’ll be updating blog posts throughout the trip, with lots of pictures along the way.

 

London

I’ve never been to London. Michael lived there for six months while completing an internship (with the BBC) in college. He didn’t do a lot of the touristy things while he was there, so it will still be like experiencing the culture and the history of London for the first time.

We have our Oyster Card, our London Pass and booked a tour of Buckingham Palace and the gardens. With only four short days to try and absorb it all– we’ve made lists and itineraries of  what we most want to see. Doing the research ahead of time and knowing we can’t see everything, we plan to go and just have a great time, seeing what we can without the pressures or expectations of doing everything.

In addition to experiencing the city, we’ve booked tickets to see five shows. Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Matilda, The Curious Incident of the Dog In the Night-Time, The Play That Goes Wrong and Funny Girl.

Rome

We have three days to run around Rome. We’re staying, as what is considered part of the ‘pre-cruise’, with all sightseeing on our own. We plan on doing a lot of walking– from the Spanish Steps to the Colosseum. We’re saving the Vatican until after the cruise.

Broadway On The High Seas 7 Cruise in Italy

 

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We’re sailing on the Silversea ship, Silver Wind which only accommodates  294 passengers with a crew of 208.

The entertainers this time around are an eclectic, exciting mix of Broadway alumni.

boths7

Broadway Stars will shine on BOTHS7 in Italy.

 

itinerary2016-italy

We leave Civiavecchia with stops in Sorrento;  Taormina; Valletta, Malta; Trapani; Cagliari; Bonifacio, France; and returning to Civiavecchia.

We’ll have daily land excursions (including a visit to the ruins of Pompeii) with wonderful concerts aboard ship at night. It’s like two vacations in one.

Following the cruise, we’ll be back for one more full day and night in Rome.

We’re looking forward to an incredible adventure.

VIDEO: Eighteen Days in South East Asia with Mike & Jeff

I finally finished the video montage of our South East Asia trip with Broadway On the High Seas 5 through Playbill Travel in November 2015. You can watch it here but I highly recommend watching it full screen to get the full effect of the incredible scenery.

 

 

 

If you haven’t already read my daily blog posts from the trip and want to know more– start reading my previous posts at the end of October 2015.

I hope you enjoyed it!

Tragedy and a Deserted Island

Southeast Asia Travel -11/14 – Day Sixteen: We woke up early to the news of the Paris attacks, as they were in progress; and we were instantly glued to the TV. Outside our balcony door, we could see our ship was cruising closer to the peaceful, sparsely populated island of Tioman, Malaysia… our destination for the day.

In the marketing materials for the cruise, Playbill touted (what other sources have as well) that Tioman was the island used to represent Bali Hai in the movie South Pacific but this isn’t true. Those scenes were actually filmed in Hawaii. Nevertheless, this beautiful island was here waiting for us.

The island of Tioman, Malaysia.

The island of Tioman, Malaysia.

The chaos playing out in Paris was diametrically opposed to the serenity before me. It just wasn’t right.

We broke away from the TV and headed to breakfast. Only a few people had started straggling in. Of course we wondered if anyone else knew what was going on in France. Our ship is French—did the crew know yet?

We checked the news again after we ate, and then decided to catch the first tender, figuring it was only going to get more crowded if we waited for a later one. We got down to the deck only to find out it had temporarily been postponed. After an hour, the temporary delay had become a questionable, permanent decision. No Tioman.

A captivating little lagoon on Tioman. Used my zoom lens, shot from our ship. It was as close as we'd get.

A captivating little lagoon on Tioman. Used my zoom lens, shot from our ship. It was as close as we’d get.

The story of what actually happened will probably always be a mystery. We were told that the resort we were supposed to visit (and use their beach)– suddenly went bankrupt overnight. This was odd as we were also told that as of the night before they were excited we were coming. I should also note that the population of Tioman (in 2008) is estimated at 432. So to believe this story, you’d have to believe that a small beach resort, knowing a ship was bringing over two hundred customers for the day– suddenly decided to close shop and not even wait an extra day, collecting whatever income it could. It makes no sense.

Add to this, there were two other resorts visible from our ship and no one could be reached at either of them. From our viewpoint, the coast was completely deserted.  A rumor started on our boat, early on, that initially I didn’t give much credence. A few people were suggesting that because of the Paris attacks and because our ship was French; the islanders were afraid to let us come ashore. Later I had no choice but to believe it, especially after seeing movement on shore as soon as our ship started drifting further away. A few small fishing boats also started to appear. It was curious to say the least.

At noon, the crew organized a brief gathering on the rear deck to remember the people of France and lowered the French flag to half-mast. Yes, all over the world- even on a small ship floating in the South Pacific– people were touched and solidarity ruled over despair.

It was announced that at 2 PM the Broadway performers were rallying together to put on a variety show to entertain the ship. This thrown-together event turned out to provide some pretty exciting moments. All the performers (except Liz Callaway whose concert was scheduled for tonight) performed; giving us a wonderful show. For many of us, it was probably a better way to spend the afternoon than basking in the sun anyway.

All the performers, giving their all, in the afternoon's surprise variety show.

All the performers, giving their all, in the afternoon’s surprise variety show.

This was our last night on the ship; tomorrow we’d dock in Singapore.

The incredible Liz Callaway.

The incredible Liz Callaway.

Liz Callaway’s show was moved up to an hour before dinner. She pulled out all the stops and gave us a terrific show. I was especially thrilled because her final song was, The Story Goes On, from the musical Baby. Particularly poignant for many reasons. Liz is another of the many Broadway performers that gives her whole heart when she sings. It was a perfect last concert among so many great performances we received.

Following the concert, we had the introduction of the ship’s crew and our final toast to the end of a great cruise. Michael and I just happened to be sitting in front of Hunter Foster and Jennifer Cody, so we got to clink our glasses of champagne with them.

I regret not getting to say goodbye to a lot of people after dinner. I really wasn’t thinking about the unlikelihood of seeing many of them in the morning. We were smart enough to get most of the email addresses exchanged early though, so we’d be able to stay in touch.

We spent the last couple of hours before bed packing and dealing with the reception desk. The cruise has gone way too fast and I’m just thankful for all the wonderful memories. Luckily, we have a full day in Singapore tomorrow before we start the long journey home.

Seasick & Show Happy

Southeast Asia Travel -11/13 – Day Fifteen: Breakfast… show… lunch… show… show… dinner… show. That was today’s schedule.

Christine Ebersole preparing to sing "Around the World".

Christine Ebersole preparing to sing “Around the World”.

I was really excited about the first event of the day—Seth Rudetsky interviewing Christine Ebersole and Rachel York about their roles in the musical, Grey Gardens. Christine won a Tony Award in 2007 for her dual roles of Edith and Edie Beale. We were fortunate to see her performance on Broadway. Rachael York just finished playing the same role(s) this summer starring opposite Betty Buckley. The highlight of this session was Christine Ebersole singing Around the World from the show.

 

Christine Ebersole, Seth Rudetsky & Rachel York discuss Grey Gardens.

Christine Ebersole, Seth Rudetsky & Rachel York discuss Grey Gardens.

 

Here’s a YouTube clip from the Broadway production:

 

 

Pat Birch is probably not a name familiar to a lot of people though her work is everywhere. A dancer/choreographer/director with credits a mile long, she has definitely left her mark in many forms of media and entertainment. Film, theatre, TV, music videos… she’s done it all.

Pat entertained us with stories from her career, hosted by John Fahey, in the afternoon.

Patricia Birch with Tommy Tune at the Opening Dinner.

Patricia Birch with Tommy Tune at the Opening Dinner.

Patricia Birch started as a dancer and quickly segued in choreography. She played the role of Anybodys in the 1960 revival of West Side Story. Among her many credits she was responsible for choreographing stage and film productions of Grease, Candide, A Little Night Music, Parade and her work was regularly seen on Electric Company, 6 seasons of Saturday Night Live, and the film, The First Wives Club. That’s just a sample. Pat is a friendly, gifted and fascinating artist.

The Playbill Cocktail Hour became The Newlywed Game today. Better stated: The Broadway Newlywed Game. All the questions had some Broadway connection. Three couples married less than a year participated: One older couple, one young gay couple, and one couple I’d guess to be in their late 30’s. The game itself was fun but it was the banter between the hosts that made it the best. Married couple, Jennifer Cody and Hunter Foster were hysterical—much of the time, not trying to be! From making the instructions more confusing than reading the U.S. Tax Code to Jennifer’s constant quick wit—it was a ball.

I have to say I was feeling a little seasick today. At least the constant, slight rocking back and forth wasn’t helping how I was feeling. To say that I was grumpy at dinner was an understatement. Feeling the way I did, the extremely slow service started to make me crazy. Dinner took an hour and 50 minutes to get through—with big breaks between courses. I wanted to pull my hair out. We barely had time to run back to the room before the evening’s show.

Rachel York

Rachel York

Rachel York has a powerhouse voice that doesn’t quit. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a performer do so many big power numbers in one set before– each using the full range of her voice. She loves doing impressions. She gave us Julie Andrew, Liza Minnelli. Cher, Celine and a whole lot more. One example, Rachel sang I Will Always Love You, starting with Whitney, switching to Dolly, throwing in a few others and ending with Whitney’s big ending.

 

Rachel York accompanied by Seth Rudetsky.

Rachel York accompanied by Seth Rudetsky.

 

With all the performers there has been a great variety in content and style of performances… Not to mention the contrasts of the different personalities. In spite of the changes in the originally announced list of performers, Playbill has done an excellent job of entertaining us with a wide range of Broadway talent.

Riding Elephants in Thailand

Southeast Asia Travel -11/12 – Day Fourteen: Was it really necessary for us to be up and ready to go at 7:15 AM? (We’d be glad later.) With a limited serving schedule, breakfast was a rush. At least we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise to start the day.

Sunrise off the coast of Koh Samui, Thailand.

Sunrise off the coast of Koh Samui, Thailand.

Koh Samui is an island belonging to Thailand. There is not a port or large enough dock to accommodate our ship so we were tendered in to shore.

Of the excursion choices we had, we decided to take the Jeep & Elephant Experience. We soon learned that ‘jeep’ meant a small Toyota pickup truck with two benches and a plastic tarp for a top.

Shopping village at Namuang.

Shopping village at Namuang.

Maybe I expected too much but I really thought we’d be exploring some rural terrain in an actual jeep. I thought the jeep ride was part of the experience. In fact, it was just the vehicle that transported us from location to location.

Most of the tour was spent at Namuang Safari Park. First we visited a waterfall, hidden largely by too many trees. We then had a few minutes to wander a little shopping village. Instead, Michael and I watched an elephant bathing in the water downstream of the waterfall.

An adorable baby elephant at the safari park.

An adorable baby elephant at the safari park.

From there we went to the elephant camp. I have to say, riding an elephant is a pretty incredible experience. We got on from tall loading platforms. Our guide rode on our elephant’s shoulders while we sat on a bench seat on his back. He encouraged our elephant to walk by rubbing his ears with his feet. At one point, our guide got down and let me ride on our elephant’s shoulders.

 

Michael & I riding our elephant as he shows of for the camera.

Michael & I riding our elephant as he shows off for the camera.

After that we watched a short elephant trick show in the same park. This was followed by a monkey show… or, as we renamed it a ‘coconut show’. There was only one monkey– they made him spin coconuts before climbing a tree and dropping prop coconuts. Then he was gone. The rest of the ‘show’ was spent watching a guy open and shred a coconut. If that wasn’t enough, we then had to move to a different pavilion to watch a cooking class. By cooking class, I mean they made a salad. One of the ship’s photographers was with our group and laid down and took a nap.

By this point, it had started raining. As we were leaving we saw others holding umbrellas, riding the elephants. We were so glad we had our rides before the rain started.

The Mummified Monk of Koh Samui.

The Mummified Monk of Koh Samui.

The ‘jeep’ took us to the temple, Wat Khunaram to see the mummified monk, Loung Pordaeng. The monk died in 1973 at the age of 79. His body is displayed in a glass case at the temple. Sunglasses were put on him to hide his deteriorated eyes. No one can explain why his body has not decomposed with the humidity and high heat. Many Thai people believe it is a miracle.

I was sitting in the very back of the pick up… er, I mean jeep; and got completely drenched with rain on the way back to the dock. I couldn’t wait to get back to the ship and dry out.

Before dinner, we attended a reception for past BOTHS cruisers and the stars. It was just a nice way to thank us for supporting and traveling with Playbill Travel.

Our only Broadway performance today was Seth Rudetsky’s Deconstructing Broadway. It wasn’t until nearly halfway through the cruise that Seth became a more active part of the daily entertainment, aside from accompanying the performers. So we were ready for some Seth-time. He is a total showman—super funny; and knows more about Broadway than anyone else alive.

Our last sea day is tomorrow and there are four big Broadway events scheduled. Can’t believe how fast the time is flying!

Broadway Moms & A Broadway Beauty

Southeast Asia Travel -11/11 – Day Thirteen: We had a much-needed day at sea today. Very few people were up and about during breakfast after yesterday’s whirlwind day in Bangkok. Michael and I tried to catch catnaps in between the scheduled events.

I forgot to mention before that due to a previously scheduled engagement, Norm Lewis left the cruise yesterday in Bangkok while Kerry Butler and Rachel York joined the cruise there.

At 11 AM, the second and last autograph session was held. We got our posters signed and chatted a bit; then enjoyed watching the stars interact with the guests. Today featured Hunter Foster, Jennifer Cody, Kerry Butler and Rachel York.

Talking about being Broadway Moms.

Talking about being Broadway Moms.

Mid-afternoon, John Fahey hosted a talk called, Being a Broadway Mom with Kerry Butler, Liz Callaway and Christine Ebersole. Towards the end Rachel York was brought in to the conversation. It was interesting to hear how they try to balance family with career and fun hearing how Broadway casts so warmly welcome the children into their show families. There were many touching moments as these moms expressed their love (and a few regrets) for their children.

Hunter Foster joined Kerry Butler for a number during her concert.

Hunter Foster joined Kerry Butler for a number during her concert.

Kerry Butler and Seth Rudetsky opened the concert tonight with Suddenly from Xanadu. It was the first time I’d heard Seth sing that way – he’s really got a nice voice. Usually when he sings, it’s in his Seth-schtick voice. If you’ve listened to him, you’ll know what I mean.

Together they basically did part of a recent concert they performed at 54 Below. Seth interviewed Kerry and she sang up a storm. One of her songs, A Change In Me, was not in Beauty and the Beast when she was Belle on Broadway. It was added later for Toni Braxton. It was a great concert and many wonderful stories were shared.

 

Kerry Butler

Kerry Butler